Skara Grill

Sunday, December 06, 2009 at 02:00 PM | Posted by caroloc

1985 Centre Street
West Roxbury, MA 02132

By Beth O’Brien

Atmosphere:
West Roxbury’s Skara Grill serves authentic Greek cuisine in a warm and welcoming space. Open only a couple of months, Skara showed no sign of the missteps that so often plague newly opened eateries. The food was tasty and well prepared, the wine list abbreviated yet broad, the service professional and gracious.

The glass of Roditis Savatiano white fresco that we sipped with the crusty sourdough and pita in the breadbasket also proved a nice partner to the salad. Incredibly fresh with a tangy Greek style dressing, the salad alone makes a visit worthwhile.  Crispy greens, snappy cucumbers and sweet grape tomatoes were gently bathed with dressing that tasted as if it were just mixed.

Appetizers:
An appetizer of grilled octopus followed the salad and was definitely the highlight of an all-around excellent meal. The octopus had been marinated in olive oil flecked with fresh oregano and grilled over an open flame. Sweet and tender with a slightly charred skin, the simple preparation belied the dish’s complexity.

Dinner:
The chicken kabob served with rice and roasted potatoes is a sophisticated take on a Greek staple. The tender chicken was complemented by cinnamon and Greek herbs and had been grilled to perfection.  Like everything at Skara Grill, it was fresh, well prepared and perfectly spiced.

My lamb in tomato sauce was fork tender and practically melted in the mouth. Like the kabob, a gentle cinnamon flavor worked with the herbs to create a well balanced dish that was even better the next day. Green beans with diced tomato and roasted potatoes absorbed the tomato sauce for a sweetish side dish that went beautifully with the lamb. 

The Tuesday evening we dined there, the takeout counter was bustling with what appeared to be regulars and the restaurant was filled with an eclectic mix of families with children, couples and even a pair of Greek speakers sharing a bottle of wine in a cozy alcove. The atmosphere is laid back and there is definitely an air of suburban cool about the place.

The restaurant itself recalls the Mediterranean. The interior is painted in warm hues and trimmed out in black. The tables and chairs are substantial and comfortable, and invite lingering. Unfortunately one of the restaurant’s best features was unavailable to us on our visit – there is an outdoor patio fronting Centre Street already stocked with umbrella shaded tables and some great plantings. The mix of urban streetscape with Mediterranean-style patio brings a bit of Newbury Street to the ‘burbs.  A summer visit is definitely planned. 

Owner George Kariotis and his son Bobby are charming hosts. West Roxbury natives, the Kariotis family opened Skara Grill almost literally in their own backyard. Although the Kariotis family is known to foodies through their Cambridge eatery, this restaurant seems intensely personal and benefits from one perceives as an eagerness to bring good things to the neighborhood.

Assessment:
It is difficult to believe that the restaurant sits on the site formerly occupied by Friendly’s, a downmarket chain. Apparently many GPS systems find it difficult to believe as well – according to Bobby many diners have popped Skara Grill’s address into their GPS only to be told that they were en route to Friendly’s. Fortunately for anyone looking for a great meal in West Roxbury, Friendly’s has left the building and Skara Grill is here to stay.

Address: 1985 Centre Street, West Roxbury, MA 02132
Phone: 617.327.1114
Website: http://www.skaragrill.com
Cuisine: Greek
Price: $3.95-$22.95
Hours: Lunch Daily: 11am-4pm; Dinner Nightly: 5pm-10pm
Features: outdoor patio
Recommendations: chicken kabob & lamb in tomato sauce
Public Transit and Parking: Parking lot
Reservations: accepted
Payment Options: all major credit cards