Savinos Grill

Monday, June 22, 2009 at 05:12 PM | Posted by caroloc

449 Common Street
Belmont, MA 02478

by Bryan Roof

Atmosphere:
As you walk beneath the awning and through the doors of Savinos in Belmont’s Cushing Square, you’re immediately greeted by a foggy glass-backed bar, more the style of a hip night club than suburban fine dining establishment. The dining room is warm, with cantaloupe colored walls and large sidewalk windows that let the afternoon sun filter through, giving the restaurant a relaxing glow. Through the open kitchen you’ll catch a glimpse of Chef Tom Cutrone working his pure, simple flavors into each dish. With its clean architectural lines and well balanced food, Savinos is a welcome addition to Belmont’s subdued restaurant scene.

Food:
Even from the start Savinos sets itself apart. The bread basket arrives with peppered virgin olive oil and a puree of chickpeas instead of the usual butter. From there the chef sends an amuse of gorgonzola stuffed dates with aged balsamic. The flavors are sweet, salty, and pungent, with the mild acidity of the vinegar cutting through. Appetizers include Chilled Vegetable Carpaccio ($10), Grilled Shrimp ($12), and seasonal Soft Shell Crab ($12), a special for the evening. 

The chef’s rendition of the free form vegetable carpaccio is comprised of thinly sliced and grilled eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers, and red onions sauced with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette and shaved parmesan. The dish is delightfully light, but the flavors are bold. The grilled shrimp is served over a salad of white beans studded with crisp, salty bits of pancetta. A tempura-style fried scallion sits on top, and pink strawberry vinaigrette adds fruitiness, making this a standout summertime dish. The lightly floured and pan-fried soft shell crab was well seasoned and perfectly moist. Its freshness popped against the relatively subdued backdrop of orzo salad creating yet another great combination.

The entrees brought forth Spice Crusted Salmon ($22) and Semolina Dusted Tilapia ($23) - two fish dishes that married a bevy of flavors under a simplistic tone. The salmon arrived atop a wild rice and orzo cake that was just as flavorful as the salmon. Pea tendrils, baby zucchini, roasted beets, and a hearty drizzle of brightly flavored mint oil gave the dish a mixture of earth and sea, and it all worked beautifully together. The tilapia was a play on the down-home favorite of fried fish and slaw. In addition to a spicy Napa slaw, roasted red potatoes, wax beans, haricot verts, and a lemon-caper-cornichon relish give you everything needed for a plate of fried fish-crunchy, spicy, creamy, and crisp.

Desserts:
The two desserts we had that evening were Ricotta Cheese Cake and a Walnut Tart ($9 each),which complemented an already excellent meal. The ricotta cheese cake, which is in no way intended to replicate the other type of cheese cake, was sandwiched by a top and bottom crust, and the ricotta filling was slightly coarse and just sweet enough to let you know it was dessert. The walnut tart is better suited to the purists who want their desserts sweet, a little gooey, and with a hint of chocolate; served with vanilla ice cream, it was classic to say the least.

Assessment:
The chef’s talent speaks to simplicity, and is a testament to the less-is-more philosophy. The food is aggressively seasoned and the plates are built so each ingredient has its turn in the spotlight. The staff is as knowledgeable as they are hospitable, and the warmth of the experience makes you feel as though you’re dining at a friend’s home. Thursday nights at Savinos feature live jazz and, in addition to the regular menu, a tapas menu is offered at the bar nightly. Belmont, along with a mob of other suburbs, is long overdue for a restaurant like Savinos. And if Savinos’ success is any indication, others will follow.

Reservations: recommended
Website: http://www.savinosgrill.com/
Phone: 617.484.3499
Hours: Mon-Sat: 5pm-10pm
Payment: all major credit cards
Liquor: full liquor license
Parking: on-street parking
Price Range: $5-$27
Reviewed: 5/20/09