http://www.tablecritic.com/tc/index.php/site/index/ en caroloc@tablecritic.com Copyright 2012 2012-05-15T19:25:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/ducali_pizzeria_bar/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/ducali_pizzeria_bar/#When:19:25:00Z 289 Causeway Street Boston, MA 02113 (North End) By Rebeccah Marsters Atmosphere After a long day of work, I seldom crave white-clothed tables and a hushed atmosphere, and I’m pretty sure I’m not alone. If your go-to neighborhood joint involves candlelight and obsequious servers wielding corkscrews and crumbers, then read no further. If, on the other hand, you’re a sucker for a rowdy crowd, friendly, unpretentious service, and food to match, Ducali’s your place. Ask anyone what Boston’s North End needs, and another pizza joint wouldn’t make the list. Personally, I’d start with more parking and then move on to instating a strictly enforced tourist limit, but Philip Frattoroli saw things differently. After growing up in the restaurant industry, with various family members behind the helms of institutions like Filippo Ristorante and Artú, few have experienced the abundance of Italian eats in the North End more intimately than Frattoroli. Even so, he saw a niche that hadn’t been filled. There are plenty of family restaurants, trattorias, and upscale eateries, and no lack of options for sampling carbonara, puttanesca, and lasagna. But when it comes to simply hanging out in the area, you’re limited to sipping espresso at a sidewalk cafe amongst wannabe extras for the Goodfellas sequel, or rubbing elbows with sneaker-clad tourists downing cannolis. Ducali Pizzeria & Bar fills the void. After nearly running down a gaggle of the aforementioned tourists to secure the one and only available parking space for miles, a quick walk up Washington Street brought us to Ducali’s unassuming façade nestled across from the Charlestown Bridge. Dinner was in full swing at nearly seven on a Monday night, and diners crowded simple wooden tables and bar stools, sipping beers and plucking slice after slice of pizza from worn metal pans. Artfully lettered signs painted on the walls in yellow and blue (the colors of Parma’s soccer team) brighten the wood-and-brick interior, while a wall full of windows lets in ample sunlight—as well as a less than scenic street vista. Claiming our own little table (one of the last empty) cued the approach of our bubbly waitress, and I couldn’t help but notice that staff and clientele alike were comprised of the decidedly young and attractive. But at that moment, the only attraction I felt was to a cold beer—my cue to pick up the menu and start the meal. Appetizers In a creative spin on a bar snack, not to mention an irreverent nod to the fusion trend, Ducali serves nachos Italiano ($8): instead of chips, cheese is melted over planks of pizza crust and served with tomato sauce for dipping. Fried bocconcini are equally unique—like a grown-up version of mozzarella sticks. But being unique doesn’t mean rejecting convention, as evidenced by classics like a Roman-style artichoke ($8) and grilled vegetable antipasto ($8). Never one to turn down cured meat, I chose the antipasto misto ($11), a wooden board full of meaty salami, delicate slices of prosciutto, shards of parmesan, and provolone, which, while inoffensive, was better suited to a deli sandwich—there’s no competing with the king of cheeses. Another classic, fried calamari arrabiata, boasted squid rings and nests of tentacles (my favorite part) fried to a crispy golden brown. The “spicy” sauce didn’t pack much heat, but fried hot pepper slices mixed in with the calamari more than satisfied my need for spice. Entrees In keeping with Ducali’s casual motif, salads, sandwiches, and pizzas fill out the rest of the menu. The salads stray from the Italian theme, but combinations like a portobello-topped Caesar ($9) and steak and Gorgonzola over greens ($13) defy classification (and Caesar was Roman, after all). We chose the “pastore” ($10), which was tasty, but the peppery arugula couldn’t stand up to pear slices, candied walnuts, and an heavy-handed dose of sweet dressing. The dollop of ricotta that crowned the salad was rich, milky, and smooth—I only wished there was more of it. Sandwiches range from the traditional (steak with peppers, onions, and provolone for $13), to the modern (chicken and pesto for $10, prosciutto, apple, and brie for $11), to the shameless indulgence of a simple grilled cheese ($8).  All good options, no doubt, but I was there for pizza. While studying in Parma, Frattoroli became enamored of Neapolitan-style pizza, and this is what he serves at Ducali. The thinner, lighter-crusted pie is a distant kin of clunky, deep-dish American-style pizzas, sodden with sauce and sagging under the weight of myriad toppings. Again, Ducali’s menu pays homage to the usual suspects, like Margherita, four cheese, and tre porcellini, which means three little pigs, and is their version of a meat-lovers special. Less expected but equally appealing is a potato and rosemary-topped pie. And as dubious as I am of tortellini on a pizza, they get kudos for challenging culinary rubric. All the pies come in large and small, and despite the menu’s claim that the latter serves one, I think sharing is a far better plan—plus, you can try even more that way. Our first choice was the melanzane e zucchini (small, $10).  Even at first glance these pizzas announce their divergence from the norm: the thin crusts are free-form, with rambling borders forming a rough circle, and minimally embellished with pared-down toppings, often conspicuously devoid of red sauce. The paper-thin ribbons of zucchini, rounds of eggplant, and slices of mushrooms provided earthy contrast to sweet mozzarella and tangy goat cheese. Overall, the pie wanted for a bit more moisture—juicier vegetables, a drizzle of balsamic, perhaps—but was thoroughly satisfying. Next, the rugola: a mozzarella-topped crust is mounded with fresh baby arugula, shaved parmesan, and a drizzle of heady truffle oil. The feathery arugula studded with dense bites of cheese was the perfect match for the crust’s light, crisp texture with just a touch of chew, and patches of crackery char on the bottom. If ever a pizza could be described as refreshing, this is the candidate. Read the rest... Italian 2012-05-15T19:25:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/los_amigos/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/los_amigos/#When:11:10:00Z 1743 Centre Street West Roxbury, MA 02132 By Rachel Lebeaux There’s a burrito buzz in West Roxbury thanks to Los Amigos, a new burrito joint and taqueria that opened on Centre Street February 1st. The owner, Daniel Ustayev, is the son of Christo’s Pizza owner Nathan Ustayev, whose longtime restaurant is only a few storefronts down the block. Daniel’s 22 and is graduating this spring from Babson College with majors in entrepreneurship and finance. He admits it’s a challenge balancing restaurant and school work, but the quick-service burrito concept was something the neighborhood was calling out for, he said. “I grew up in Newton, and was always around the area, and I just saw an opportunity,” Ustayev said. “There’s Mexican food, but it’ mostly [sit-down] restaurants.” Los Amigos opened to a very positive reception, he said. Indeed, on a recent Tuesday evening, the walk-in traffic was constant. Ustayev called the food “Tex-Mex style,” with some catering to American tastes. You’ll find your taqueria favorites here: Burritos, tacos, and quesadillas. But Los Amigos has its own spin on several of the ingredients. There’s traditional Spanish rice, but there’s also a green cilantro-lime variety – not really a Mexican dish, Ustayev said, but his own twist on Mexican recipes. The space is small, but appealing. There’s a small countertop with stools allowing a few customers to eat in and look out over Centre Street, although most customers get their food to go. It’s a bright space, with one neon-green accent wall, and menu items are posted on a chalkboard above the prep station. If you’ve been to a taqueria before, then you probably know the ordering drill: Step up to the counter, select your fillings and watch your burrito be briskly assembled, rolled, tin foiled and presented to you in a neat, portable wrap. Read the rest... Mexican 2012-05-02T11:10:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/greek_international_market/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/greek_international_market/#When:14:10:00Z 5204 Washington Street West Roxbury, MA 02132 By Rachel Lebeaux Fans of the Farm Grill & Rotisserie restaurant in Newton should know that there’s another Boston-area spot where you can purchase the esteemed eats of the Iliades clan. The Greek International Food Market, in West Roxbury near the Dedham line, offers an extensive prepared foods section, as well as packaged international items from the Mediterranean and beyond for those seeking authentic ingredients to whip up some Greek-inspired recipes of their own. Katerina Iliades, who manages the store for the food-focused family, said that the market, opened in 2009, follows in the footsteps of its 20-year-old Newton sibling, and grew out of customer demand. “People wanted to know how to make the food,” Iliades said."This location is really central, there aren’t a lot of international markets around here, [and] there’s a big Greek community.” It’s not just food: The market recently began selling a selection of wines, and you can’t help but smile at the “My Big Fat Greek Wine” label on several bottles. For those unfamiliar with Greek wines, the owners are planning to hold some wine tastings in the coming weeks and months. Beer is available as well (Mythos is a popular Greek lager), plus fruit juices and Ouzo-flavored sodas, among other beverages. The packaged imported goods are vast and varied. There are jars of honey with the combs still in them ("a lot of people look for that – it’s hard to find,” Iliades said), Greek and Turkish coffees and teas, olive-based tapenades, canned grape leaves and olive oils, crackers, cookies, pita bread, frozen spanakopita and much more. A fresh olive bar offers more than a half-dozen varieties. For the adventurous, there’s kokoretsi, or lamb intestines, a Greek Easter tradition. There are also a number of Greek cheeses. “People are like, ‘There’s more than one kind of feta?’” Iliades said with a laugh. Indeed, there’s goat, cow and sheep, and they’re all available for purchase. For those seeking a complete meal without the muss and fuss of homemade cooking, the prepared-food section is where you should migrate. Items are sold by weight, so you can get a little – or a lot – of the Mediterranean foods you love There’s moussaka, a baked, layered casserole of spiced ground beef, roasted eggplant, sliced potato and mild béchamel cheese. Cabbage-leaf wraps, stuffed with rice and vegetables steeped in tomato sauce, have a wonderful flavor and consistency. The octopus salad is stupendous, the chewy, tentacled cephalopod doused liberally with a nutty olive oil, vinegar and herbs. Lemon-scented grape leaves, spiced and overflowing with rice, are tangy and delicious. A phyllo pie, full of spinach and feta, is light and flaky (and there’s a chicken-filled variety too). The basic Greek salad, topped with huge blocks of feta cheese, is drizzled with fantastic, house-made Greek dressing. Read the rest... Greek 2012-04-03T14:10:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/scampo/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/scampo/#When:22:33:00Z 215 Charles Street Boston, MA 02114 By Bryan Roof Atmosphere When I landed in Boston 12 years ago, Lydia Shire was one of the first names to arise in the discussion of who’s who in the restaurant world. I still remember dining at her late flagship Biba and eating the famous lobster pizza. As other chefs have come and gone, Lydia has remained a fixture in Boston. Scampo is one of her most recent ventures that, lucky for us, still rings true with her spirit and the inspired menu offerings that made her a household name. The expansive restaurant anchors the lobby of the Liberty Hotel on Boston’s Charles Street. Red-hued lighting set against exposed brick and the comfortable elegance of the dining room immediately grab your attention as you take in a bustling crowd of young professionals. A large open kitchen adds substance to the vibe as chefs man a busy pizza oven, fresh mozzarella bar, and molten tandoor oven beneath heavily polished copper fixtures. The tandoor pushes out items from prosciutto-draped naan ($18) to roasted scallops on whipped white eggplant ($19), and while the menu is mostly grounded in Italian fare, it takes liberties with Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavors and concepts. After all, when it’s Lydia Shire’s place, you shouldn’t expect anything to be straightforward. Good, yes, straightforward, no. Appetizers The menu is a well thought out offering, studded with unusual pairings and interesting combinations that continually surprise with their presentation and delight on the palate. To start, crispy bread sticks are dropped in the center of the table (right on the tablecloth) and accompanied by a creamy puree of fava beans, pine nuts, and basil. Deep green basil oil dots this summery concoction and the intensity of the pine nuts and basil dominate. One of the most popular handmade breads on the menu is the elephant ear walking ($9), a grilled thin-crust pizza of sorts cooled in such a way that gives it a unique wave shape––maybe it’s the shape of an elephant ear but animal anatomy is outside my realm of expertise. However, I am expert enough to know that this simple flatbread of marinara, mozzarella, and finely shredded basil is outstanding and the ideal item to get everyone around the table eating with their hands at the start of the meal. The Rum Smoked Salmon ($19) offers an interesting spin on a classic. While still adorned with capers, minced red onion, and hard-boiled egg, crisp Asian pear, watercress, and toasted brown bread also come along for the ride. The salmon has a slight molasses tinge from its rum and brown sugar cure, and a delicate smokiness offered up by a combination of wood and tobacco smoke. Turning to the mozzarella bar, there are half a dozen attractive offerings. Arguably, one of the most interesting is served with sweet king crab, avocado, and green mustard oil ($20). The menu leaves off mention of the other accoutrements: cucumber and radish slices, wasabi aioli, a sharp and slightly spicy tomato relish, and a plantain chip for good measure. Surprisingly, it all works, and works very well. Of the myriad forkfuls this plate offers, the pairing of crab and mozzarella is perhaps the most profound.  Read the rest... Italian 2012-03-27T22:33:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/gustazo_cuban_cafe/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/gustazo_cuban_cafe/#When:19:37:00Z 268 Belmont Street Belmont, MA 02478 By Rachel Caine Atmosphere As far as good dining options are concerned, Belmont is a bit of a wasteland, unless mediocre pizza, subs or Chinese take-out is what you’re after. Five-month old Gustazo, however, is a beacon of light, a true “hidden gem” of a restaurant, creating a much-needed romantic dinner spot for Belmonters. That Gustazo serves Cuban cuisine makes it just that much brighter, helping fill a food in the cuisine spectrum covered by Boston-area restaurants. A tiny storefront tucked away on a dark stretch of Belmont Street, Gustazo certainly does not stand out visually, but from the tables filled with enthusiastic diners, I think it’s only a matter of time before Gustazo is the center of many a Boston foodie’s attention. Patricia Estorino, the owner of Gustazo, is as quiet and unassuming as her restaurant, despite what appears to be a great passion for her culture, heritage and native cuisine. She describes the food as “very traditional Cuban cuisine,” and the restaurant décor as inspired by Spanish Colonial design. Both food prep and plating as well as the design of the restaurant are meticulous and well thought out. The food I’ll describe below, but the tiny space the restaurant houses has been completely transformed into a beautiful Cuban oasis, complete with careful tile-work, a beautiful beaten copper ceiling and romantic lighting. Gustazo is a far cry from the uninspired take-out joints that neighbor the cozy café. When I asked if a knack for the restaurant business ran in the family, Patricia reminisced about her grandparents who owned a traditional restaurant in Havana, that I can only imagine had the same meticulous attention to detail as Gustazo, with a few tiny tables already seating repeat customers and filling nightly after only 5 months of being opened. Appetizers Patricia highly recommended the Camarones al Ajillo (shrimp cooked in a very garlicky sauce, with red pepper flakes, paprika and mint; $9.50) and the Tortilla Espanola (a tort layered with potatoes and caramelized onions, $7). We did try the shrimp, but opted to try the Polenta con Queso de Cabra instead of the tort. The polenta is pan fried in little pancakes, which are stacked with a layer of creamy goat cheese between them. The top is drizzled with a lightly tangy sauce of pine nuts, chervil and olive oil that adds little flavor to the dish, but somehow imparts an earthiness and depth that is otherwise lacking. The spongy polenta is a perfect foil to the smooth and almost sticky texture of the fresh goat cheese and my husband and I enjoyed this dish very much. The shrimp dish was on the opposite end of the spectrum from the polenta – acidic and slightly spicy from the red pepper flakes and large amount of garlic (if you don’t like garlic, definitely do not order this dish!). It was intensely flavorful, and a beautifully simple dish. I certainly agreed with Patricia on this – it was one of my favorites of the evening and I have been trying to replicate her recipe ever since eating at Gustavo. Our last “starter” was an item off the soup and salad menu, the Ensalada de Remolacha ($7). When I ordered this salad, I was expecting the typical roasted beet salad with thinly sliced beets in various colors, topped with dollops of snowy goat cheese and a drizzle of sweet balsamic vinegar. Instead, we were served a beautiful plate of mixed greens topped with a generous portion of boiled and cubed red beets, all tossed with a surprisingly bright citrus vinaigrette and crunchy sunflower seeds. On the side, were two garlic bread rounds and two little cheese pancakes, pan fried and drizzled with honey (we could have eaten a plate just of these tender morsels). The salad tasted of summer, with notes of green grass, flowers, and warm weather fruits – a definite treat compared to the usual beet salad, which, while I enjoy immensely, is neither original nor creative. Read the rest... Cuban 2012-03-19T19:37:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/redds_in_rozzie/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/redds_in_rozzie/#When:18:54:00Z 4257 Washington Street Roslindale, MA 02131 By Rebeccah Marsters Atmosphere Seeing as I spent the first few years of my life in a little house on Mendum Street, you’d think I’d have more ties to Roslindale. It may be my motherland of sorts, but even though I live mere miles away, it had been nearly a decade since I’d been back; that was about to change. The name is intriguing, if not inscrutable, but if my experience at Redd’s is any indication, it won’t be flying under the radar for much longer. Despite my proximity, I managed to get completely lost en route to dinner, proving beyond a doubt my lack of familiarity with the area. As soon as I saw the street sign, and the scarlet facade glowing like a beacon, I knew I’d found my way, and as soon as I walked in the front door, I was glad my way had found me there. Not only was my welcome a warm one, but the unpretentious, homey interior put me instantly at ease. Simple tables and booths filled a burnished wood bar area and back dining room, both lined on one side by a wall of windows. A motley collection of oil paintings mingled with childhood snapshots and school photos of the staff on the opposite wall, evoking Grandma’s house in the best way (which was the point, Redd would later tell us). And yes, there really is a Redd: Chef Charlie Redd. Redd, aka Chef Delicious, has cooked at Boston fixtures like Hamersley’s and Radius, and staged in a handful of equally prestigious kitchens, but this isn’t about name dropping. As soon as Redd laid eyes on the Washington Street location, its stretch of windows open to the side patio flooding the space with light and air, he was sold. Since then, the CIA grad and his staff/family (it’s a fine line) have created what may well be the beau ideal of neighborhood eateries. The food is as comforting as the atmosphere, the southern twang of the menu—evidence of Redd’s North Carolina roots—playing a supporting role to the nearly spotless execution. Whether breaking down whole pigs, house-curing salmon, or baking their own cornbread for the bread basket, cutting corners is unheard of at Redd’s; needless to say, Grandma would be proud. Snacks With a menu divided into “Snacks,” “Little Somethin’ More,” “Hearty Fare,” and “Fixins” (sides), there’s little chance of going home hungry. To begin, a basket of homemade cornbread and fresh sourdough from Fornax (the bakery next door) with honey butter. Among the snacks, down-home classics like hushpuppies ($4.95) and deviled crab puffs ($3.95) juxtapose broiled ricotta salata with apple salad ($4.95) and raw oysters. Never one to pass up my beloved bivalves, we started with a few local oysters, served with a spicy apple mignonette ($2.50 each).  Next, pork flautas ($3.95), crisp-fried cigars of shredded pork rolled up in tortillas with chipotle aioli for dipping. A refreshing pickle plate ($3.50) followed, with classic bread and butter pickles, pickled onions, beets, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, all made in house. The grapes—an unexpected but welcome addition to the plate—had originally been purchased for another use, but instead of writing off an overabundance of fruit threatening to go bad, the kitchen preserved and re-purposed them. The crispy avocado ($3.95) wrapped up round one. Served with a slightly spicy buttermilk dressing, the crunchy coating provided a nice textural contrast to the densely creamy flesh, but for me, an avocado is a near perfect food as is, and frying it might just be gilding the lily. Starters A little something more refers to customary appetizer options, like nachos dressed up with pulled pork, or mussels with a Southeast Asian flair (each $8.95). A classic grilled cheese ($8.95) and a pulled pork sandwich ($9.95)—North Carolina style, of course— fill out the section. To save room for entrees, we chose a cup of the root cellar soup ($3.95/cup, $6.50/bowl), which combines onion and rutabaga in a silky, judiciously creamy puree, garnished with pine nuts, sauerkraut, and chives. Perfectly seasoned, full of the sweet, deep flavor of root vegetables, and boasting just the right level of richness, this elegant, well-conceived soup might have been from any of the best restaurants in the city—for about three times the price, mind you. The coastal Moroccan salad ($6.95) was too curious to ignore. Shaved raw kale, chunks of house-smoked salmon, fresh apricot, and capers in a citrusy vinaigrette provided wonderful contrasts of earthy, smoky, sweet, and briny. My only amendment to the dish would have been a bit more kale, as the intensity of the smoked fish skewed the balance. Read the rest... 2012-03-03T18:54:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/el_centro/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/el_centro/#When:15:00:01Z 472 Shawmut Avenue, Boston, MA 02118 By Rachel Lebeaux Atmosphere Tucked into a quiet corner in the South End at Shawmut Avenue and West Concord Street, El Centro calls to mind an authentic South-of-the-Border look and flavor that sets it apart from some of the more Mexican-inspired eateries that have opened in the city in recent years. The 15-table restaurant opened last spring after co-owner Allan Rodriguez, a Mexican native, zeroed in on the location while working nearby as a contractor. The cozy space bursts with colors thanks to embellishments large (an artsy, graffiti-laden back wall) and small (cactus-shaped salt and peppers shakers on the tables). Brick walls adorned with eclectic Mexican artwork, photographs and handmade decorations add a rustic, homey feel to the space. Rodriguez says his parents own restaurants in Mexico, and his food at El Centro is in the style of Sonora, a northwest region bordering the U.S. Southwest. With a focus on traditional family recipes, house-made ingredients and spice-heavy recipes, El Centro is paying admirable homage to his homeland. Drinks El Centro’s traditional margarita on the rocks arrived at our table in a festive, swirling blue glass, and its rim, salted and chili pepper-flaked, also garnished with a big slice of orange. The drink itself went down very smoothly, lacking the bite that tequila often imparts, and, thankfully, eschewing the sickly sweet quality that befalls too many margaritas. Torn between ordering frozen sangria or the spicy variety, I bowed to my instincts and went spicy ($7). With hot peppers floating not-so-innocently at the bottom of the tulip glass and a heavy dose of red chili pepper flakes sprinkled on top, this drink provided the punch I always long for in drinks advertised as spicy. More savory than sweet (despite its own orange garnish), it was an appropriate start to the take-no-prisoners fiery ingredients in our coming meal. Appetizers El Centro’s guacamole ($8), flecked with cilantro, tomato and white onion, was super-smooth and fresh. The well-sized portion really benefited from drizzles of olive oil and red chili oil, which added some additional flavor and heat, as well as a sprinkle of ricotta and Romano cheeses on top.  Note: Their “El Centro” guacamole is topped with chorizo. The sweet corn tamale ($6) formed into a half-moon shape and presented atop a corn husk, was almost like dessert. While it seemed a little undercooked and mushy in the middle, it was buttery and soothing, like Mexican cornbread. Mild poblano peppers, woven through the cornmeal, added some additional flavor, so we had no need for the accompanying sour cream dip. The shrimp ceviche ($11) was stellar. Marinated in lime juice, the shrimp was finely diced along with tomato, cucumber, cilantro, and white onion, not to mention a healthy, sinus-clearing dose of hot green peppers. Seasoned with black pepper, the tangy, tomato-y mixture had a wonderful texture and aroma, with zesty flavors bursting in each scoop of the chip. Our favorite small bite of the evening was the fish taco ($5). Yes, at $5 apiece, the price is certainly hefty. But from the house-made, fresh flour tortilla to the perfectly spiced ingredients contained within, it’s a satisfying, filling treat. Lightly battered and fried fish, smothered in cabbage, tomato, cilantro, a cilantro-based cream sauce and, most notably, a smoky chipotle crema, is moist and layered with flavors. A squeeze of the accompanying lime brings all of the elements together nicely. It should be noted that we ordered vegetarian on all of our appetizers and were duly impressed with the available selections. I would also be interested in trying their pork, beef and chicken tacos, enchiladas, and soups. Read the rest... Mexican 2012-02-20T15:00:01-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/julep_bar/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/julep_bar/#When:20:09:00Z 200 High Street Boston, MA 02110 By Rachel Lebeaux Atmosphere The ascending craft cocktail craze in Boston has another serious after-work entrant in Julep Bar. The drink program, fashioned by Trish LaCount (who is also behind the liquid-nitrogen cocktails at nearby Blue Inc.), hews toward classic preparations alongside upscale bar bites, all served in a modern, glamorous space. Set in the Financial District in a location formerly occupied by Revolution Rock Bar, Julep feels like a true lounge. (You may know its designer, Taniya Nayak, from her appearances on HGTV.) Mirrored columns, plush banquettes, ornate chandeliers, pillar candles and a long bar aglow with a geometric yellow backsplash set a sophisticated mood, and the music is all over the map, from 1950s to current pop, providing background for dancing some evenings. The service is cool and friendly, and our waitress Jillian provided perfect pacing to the meal despite the Thursday-night after-work crowd. Chef Jason Santos, the man at the helm at Blue Inc. (another TV vet, you might also know him from “Hell’s Kitchen"), handles the kitchen here at Julep. “It’s pretty straightforward upscale bar food—comforting and modern with a twist,” he said. While Blue Inc.’s whimsical menu has the “bells and whistles,” at Julep, Santos wanted to do “everything for everyone … when [the menu] says chips and guacamole, it’s chips and guacamole.” The combination of eating, drinking, music and dancing “make it a one-stop shop,” he said. Drinks The libations are, rightly, the star of the show at Julep. Yes, there’s beer and wine, of course, but the craft cocktails are the perfect antidote to a long day at the office. I’m not a craft cocktail expert, but I know what I like, and I liked a lot of what Julep had to offer. We expected the Paloma ($11) to closely resemble a margarita, with its silver tequila, fresh grapefruit soda, lime juice and salted rim. In truth, the peach-pink concoction didn’t go down as smoothly as expected – the kick of the tequila really came through. A squeeze of the accompanying lime mellowed the drink out a bit, giving it more of a pleasant pop. The bar’s namesake drink, the Julep ($12), was superb. It didn’t arrive in the “silver Julep cup” promised on the menu, but that didn’t affect the taste. Bulleit bourbon, crushed ice, simple syrup and a sprig of mint were combined in a smooth concoction that was sweet without being cloying. As the name implies, the Corpse Reviver ($13) didn’t shy away from letting the alcohol take center stage. It featured two brands of brandy—Lairds apple and Deville – as well as sweet vermouth, in an innocent shade of pink in a tall martini glass. Our waitress joked that the drink was overpowering for some, but we thought it had a nice kick, and the brandy certainly stood its ground. Similarly, the blood orange martini, a new addition to the cocktail menu, arrived at the table an alluring deep pink and with a beautiful sugared rim and a sliver of orange. More intensely orange than anticipated but with sweetness offsetting any sour notes, it was deceivingly strong and entirely delicious. The Champagne Bowler ($12), with a recipe dating back at least 70 years, is a first-class drink that combined cognac, white wine, sparkling wine and fresh muddled strawberries. It was bubbly, sweet, refreshing and delicious – for us, it turned out to be the perfect way to wind down a night out. Read the rest... American 2012-02-06T20:09:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/forum/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/forum/#When:15:52:00Z 755 Boylston Street Boston, MA 02116 By Elaine Hom Eastwood This year, I got the worst Christmas present ever. Just days before the holiday, my doctor informed me that my biopsy came back positive. I was diagnosed with celiac disease. As a food writer, this is one of the worst medical conditions to have. A genetic autoimmune disease, celiac means that the slightest amount of wheat or wheat by-product, gluten, erodes the intestinal lining and triggers an autoimmune response. Untreated, celiac disease leads to osteoporosis, malnutrition, and types of cancer. This is not the same thing as a gluten intolerance. People with gluten intolerance should not eat items with gluten, like bread or pasta, but people with celiac are in danger even if the food is contaminated with gluten. For example, French fries cooked in the same oil as battered onion rings or chicken will still trigger an autoimmune response in people with celiac, whereas people with gluten intolerance would likely not be affected. What does this all mean? I can no longer eat the things that I love. Bread, pasta, wheat noodles, cakes, cookies, pretty much anything fried or processed—there’s even gluten in soy sauce. Foods as common as shredded cheese are often dusted with flour. I even had to buy new makeup, because my old lipstick was made in a facility that also processed gluten. As a result, I can now only review restaurants able to accommodate my dietary restrictions. Fortunately for me, in 2012, most restaurants are very aware of this increasingly common issue. Forum, on Boylston Street in Boston, is luckily one of those restaurants. It’s not just accommodating, either—almost every item on the menu is already gluten-free. Atmosphere Forum replaced Vox Populi, a stale lounge bar with mediocre food and a meat market scene, and boy, is it a welcome addition to the neighborhood. A large two-floor space, the first floor is darker and more geared towards Boston’s nightlife. Bar-hopping on Boylston Street has taken a classier turn, with a classy bar area and trendy décor. The second floor is brighter and more of a dining room with a modern art feel. The space upstairs is overly contemporary, with mirrored columns, metallic notes, and modern art light fixtures. A geometric room divider brings to mind a mid-1980s investment banker’s living room, but in a more updated way. For a trendy restaurant on Boylston St., the room is surprisingly well-lit, which I appreciate. I hate peering at my food in the dark, unsure if what I’m eating is the garnish or the entrée. With a view overlooking Lord & Taylor and part of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, the dining room has wonderful ambience and a welcoming feel. Starters Our meal began with an amuse bouche of beet, blood orange, and endive, beautifully arranged on a small plate. The refreshing salad was perfectly balanced, with equal notes of sweet, bitter, and sour. The crunch of the endive plus the heartiness of the beet and the tenderness of the blood orange made for a very pleasant mouth-feel to start of the meal. While I could not indulge in the bread basket, I did try the accompaniments. The white bean puree in fruity olive oil was my favorite—with a kick of cumin and a smooth texture, it seemed like it would be delightful on some crusty bread. The honey butter was rich and sweet, while the chili oil imparted a strong chili flavor with only a touch of spice. I ordered the Trio of Tartare ($18), with beef, tuna, and salmon. The tuna tartare was served with cucumber and red onion, the beef with capers and a tiny poached quail egg, and the salmon with crème fraiche and caviar. While all three were tasty—the tuna was delicate and mild, the beef was tender and spicy, and the salmon rich and flavorful—none of them were anything I haven’t had before. The portion was also pretty small given the price, but I appreciated that the tartares were all fresh and well-seasoned. My husband opted for the Kurobuta Pork Belly ($12) with quince, black beans, and sauerkraut. We first had Kurobuta pork on our honeymoon, and we became obsessed with this melt-in-your-mouth pork. This did not disappoint. The pork belly was ribboned with rich flavorful fat, and perfectly crispy seared on one side. Often, the instinct with pork belly is to sear each side of it, but the beauty of pork belly is how the soft meat and fat melds with the crispy side—this was prepared exactly how I like it. The quince added a much needed sweetness to cut the fat, while the mild “sauerkraut” added acid and texture. The portion was huge, yet I was still pretty sad when the last bite was over. Fatty and rich, this was a great value for the price, and one of the best things I’ve eaten in a long time. Read the rest... American 2012-01-30T15:52:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/deuxave/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/deuxave/#When:21:12:00Z 371 Commonwealth Avenue Boston, MA 02115 By Rebeccah Marsters Atmosphere In an industry where even the minutest detail can make the difference between a successful restaurant and a short-lived one, street address cannot be ignored. People talk of certain locales being cursed, with a revolving-door procession of unremarkable businesses unable to last longer than a year. If the real estate industry’s motto is correct, location can be a boon or the bane of even the best restaurant, and while the corner of Commonwealth and Massachusetts Avenues in Back Bay seems like a fairly propitious spot, several failed predecessors prove otherwise. When Chef Christopher Coombs, also of dBar in Dorchester, decided to take on the ostensible onus of the site, a period of construction followed before doors were opened in September 2010. Apparently, the overhaul exorcised the demons, so to speak, because it’s been almost a year and a half now, and Deuxave is going strong. Whether you’re heading east on Comm. Ave or South on Mass Ave, Deuxave announces its presence, shining like a beacon of polished stone and gleaming windows. The rotunda design of the bar makes for an impressive façade, and the effect doesn’t wane upon entering. Surfaces of dark wood, tile, and leather abound but the space manages to feel warm and inviting, with upholstered chairs flanking cozy tables for two, and a vast fireplace. An antique map of Boston hangs on the wall, grounding the room in both space and time, and driving home the theme of location—these people are proud of their city, and proud of their place within it. In a utilitarian touch, wine bottles fill overhead niches equipped with rolling library-style ladders, and while I was tempted to take one for a spin a la Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady, I restrained myself, and instead took my seat at an elegantly-laid table; I was determined to at least try the food before I got myself ousted. Starters An approachably-sized menu of starters and mains is peppered with culinary buzzwords and trendy ingredients, but balances gels and two-hour eggs with traditional French sauces and local ingredients. Terms that I haven’t heard since culinary school jumped out at me—coulis, verjus, soubise, sauce bordelaise—and speak to Coombs’ classical training. Although I’ve heard raves about the 9-hour French onion soup ($12), served with a bone marrow crouton, and was equally intrigued by duck confit ($14) and tuna sashimi ($16), we had put ourselves in the capable hands of the chef that evening, and eagerly awaited whatever would come our way. As it turned out, we started with an amuse-sized portion of the tartare and Wagyu beef carpaccio (starter size: $14). The tartare, made from prime beef, was subtly seasoned, but a few meaty bites bordered on chewy. A paper-thin slice of herb-encrusted Wagyu beef carpaccio, however, was a perfect morsel, with floral thyme balancing savory meat, and a rosemary-mustard aioli driving home the richness. Accompaniments of chanterelle escabèche, a crispy potato gaufrette, and cornichons finished off the plate. Next, the playfully named “Night Moves” Scituate lobster with gnocchi ($19) paired the two headlining ingredients with mushrooms, green grapes, curried walnuts, and pearl onions in a citrus butter sauce. This was a beautiful plate of food; rich but not over the top, made unique by the addition of grapes and lightly-spiced nuts, but still boasting a logical combination of ingredients. The lobster was well cooked, and while the gnocchi were tender, they missed a bit of the characteristic chew. The next plate lacked the restraint of those previous, but if you’re going to indulge in culinary excess, it might as well involve foie gras. The seared Hudson Valley foie gras ($21) paired a sizeable hunk of the stuff with a decadent gingerbread cake, tart grapefruit marmalade, and a salad of grapefruit and daikon. A swoosh of sweet potato-citrus puree and a smattering of pomegranate seeds and microgreens (their third appearance in as many courses, in fact) around the perimeter of the plate brought to mind the composed chaos of a modernist painting. The sweet spice of gingerbread and bitter bite of marmalade were classic matches for the heady liver, and finishing with the refreshing citrus was a natural progression, but the dish felt a bit disconnected, lacking the clarity of a cohesive whole. Read the rest... French 2012-01-24T21:12:00-05:00