http://www.tablecritic.com/tc/index.php/site/index/ en caroloc@tablecritic.com Copyright 2010 2010-09-06T21:42:01-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/trinas_starlie_lounge/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/trinas_starlie_lounge/#When:21:42:01Z 3 Beacon Street Somerville MA 02143 By Bryan Roof Atmosphere: Trina’s Starlite Lounge, in Somerville’s Inman Square area, could be described as the new American bar.  At least it’s what all neighborhood pubs, hangouts, watering holes, joints, and roadside shanties aiming to serve frank bar food above and beyond expectation should be modeled after. Throw in a friendly price tag, and you’re in business––in the case of Trina’s, a lot of business. If the kitchen can make it from scratch, there’s a good chance they do, and while the menu shies away from outright gastropub aspirations, it is built firmly around the classics you’ve come to expect on a bar menu, however, executed with a skilled, thoughtful hand. Food: What Trina’s does so nicely is make pub classics really well. With its homey neighborhood vibes and warm New England-adjusted Southern hospitality, the narrative on the menu gives little indication of the quality to come. Take the BBQ Sweet Potato Chips and Dip ($5) for example. Wafer thin slices of sweet potato are shatteringly crisp, and they’re paired with a house-made French onion dip that, no matter the portion size, could ever outlast the chips. (Incidentally, the chips even held their crispness after a night in my fridge––eerily supernatural.) The Spicy Starlite Wings ($7) are a prime example of simplicity glorified. These wings are confited for several hours until fall-off-the-bone tender, and then fried to order. The result is a rich texture and crisp skin. And although they might appear to the layperson as another version of Buffalo wings, the sauce on these babies is sweet first, and spicy second, and the combination mimics a Korean Fried Chicken coating.  Read the rest... Southern 2010-09-06T21:42:01-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/delfino_restaurant/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/delfino_restaurant/#When:12:08:01Z Delfino Restaurant 754 South Street Roslindale, MA 02131 By Rachel Lebeaux Atmosphere: Delfino Restaurant, nestled in Roslindale Village, has expertly crafted Italian cuisine and is considered by many the culinary crown jewel of the Parkway. Ruben Diaz, the chef in training alongside longtime head chef JoAnne LeBlanc, says diners might shrug when they see Italian staples like chicken parmesan or pasta with red sauce on the menu, but the high-quality food is prepared with a lot of care, and he swears Delfino’s take on these dishes will probably be the best you’ve ever had. “Even the tomato sauce is meticulously cooked,” Diaz said. “[Owner Stephen Judge’s] philosophy on our food is it’s got to be made with love, and if he doesn’t love it, it doesn’t leave the kitchen.” The restaurant thrives on word of mouth and its neighborhood reputation. On a recent Wednesday evening, it was packed, and the maitre d’, Michael, clearly knew many returning customers well. The dimly lit 15-table dining room is brightened in the early evening by a gorgeous bay window with a rounded booth tucked into it. Food-themed murals decorate the upper walls, colorful depictions of pastoral picnics in the Italian countryside resplendent with wine, fresh fruit and vegetables. The open kitchen is tucked into the corner, where you can watch the chefs prepare your dishes and see them occasionally lean over the bar to chat with customers. Upbeat jazz music sets a breezy feel, and the conversation level can get a little loud but it’s nothing you can’t chat over. So settle into your seat, study the menu and prepare to dive into a low-key, memorable feast. Drinks: The wine list at Delfino isn’t long but it’s packed with good-value wines that pair well with the kitchen’s classic Italian fare. The Saint M Riesling from Chateau Ste. Michelle ($5.50/glass, $22/bottle) is a bubbly, sweet wine with peach and apricot flavors and a crisp acidity that goes well with the chicken and seafood specialties. The Malbec Catena ($7.75/glass, $30/bottle), according to our waitress Emily, would stand up well to my main course, and she was right: The deep, dark red was robust, spicy and aromatic, with fruity and floral notes and a luxurious finish. There are also beers on the menu for $4.95. Appetizers: The simple preparation of seafood dishes here relies on hearty helpings of quality ingredients. The mussels ($8.95) come with a choice of red, white or fra diavolo sauces, and we opted for the white, with garlic and olive oil. They weren’t kidding about the garlic: If the baddies from “Twilight” ever appear at your doorstep, you’d be well served to have this dish as your defense. Fanned across the plate with parsley sprinkled around the edge, these mussels were absolutely suffused with giant slices of fresh garlic and a not-too-oily sauce that I lapped up with the leftover bread from the bread basket. Addictive? I’d say so, and a heaping portion for the price. I’m already planning a return visit to sample the other two varieties. On special this evening, the two baked figs ($9.95) wrapped in prosciutto nailed the sweet-and-salty contrast, but the real highlight of the dish was the dreamy gorgonzola fondue slathered underneath them. It was a little odd – there’s a part of me that felt like the elements didn’t hold together as well as they could have. But the gorgonzola paired with the soft figs and thin layers of prosciutto reminded me of a great pizza I tried last year, minus all that bread – never a bad thing, considering how carb-heavy other Italian courses tend to be! You can also start your meal off with pan-seared scallops dressed in a truffle vinaigrette and served with sweet corn ($10.95), broccoli raab sautéed with sliced garlic, hot pepper flakes and extra virgin olive oil ($8.95), the classic Caesar salad ($5.95) and grilled Tuscan bruschetta with roasted eggplant caponata, cherry tomatoes and goat cheese ($9.95). Read the rest... Italian 2010-09-01T12:08:01-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/orzo_trattoria/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/orzo_trattoria/#When:01:17:00Z 1085 Osgood Street North Andover, MA 01845 by Rachel Weiner Atmosphere: Orzo is a very cozy and welcoming atmosphere despite its suburban strip mall location.  The store front is unassuming, nestled next to The Butcher Boy (a fantastic butcher shop that’s worth the trip if you are in the area!), but once inside, it opens up into a kitschy interior (think something out of Disney World’s Epcot), styled to look like an outdoor Italian café, complete with brickwork, an awning and old fashioned looking lampposts. The bar is also separated from the dining room, which adds to the illusion of the outdoor café. It is romantic, vibrant, fun and completely unexpected. My fiancée and I were seated by the window on a crowded Thursday night. The acoustics in Orzo are such that it always seems very loud, so be prepared to speak up if you want your dining companion to hear you! But, if you’re anything like me, the noise level adds to the charm. It always makes me feel like I’m out somewhere hip and lively and I always enjoy myself much more than if I’m in a very quiet or empty restaurant.  Drinks: The menu at Orzo is vast, with so many options, and the drink menu is certainly no exception! A long list of white, sparkling, and red wines by the glass ($5.75 - $8.00) and ($19 - $75) has something for any wine drinker. For the non-wine enthusiast at the table, Orzo provides a delicious martini list, with options like a “Lemontini” and a “Peach Dream,” as well as coffee drinks ($7) like the “Nutty Irishman” and the “Jamaican,” and even a few beers ($3.25-$4). My fiancée and I were both in the mood for wine, and I ordered a fruity and aromatic glass of Malbec, while he ordered a split of light and refreshing Prosecco. We enjoyed our first sips with Orzo’s bread basket, which included a garlicky breadstick and a soft French bread, which were both, unfortunately, served cold.  I generally love all bread, but was unimpressed by Orzo’s assortment, which I think could be improved by serving the breadsticks warmed alongside a fresh and crusty Italian baguette. Appetizers: Since the menu was so large, it was difficult to choose what to try. We each decided to begin with a salad, I with the simple house salad ($2.99) and Aaron with the caprese salad ($7.99). Mine was vegetables tossed with a creamy balsamic vinaigrette, which was a bit too creamy for my liking but still had the deep notes of a fruity balsamic vinegar. The caprese salad was also basic, and the tomatoes and mozzarella both didn’t taste as fresh as they should be to make a caprese salad truly stand out. Similarly, the basil sprinkled on top was somewhat dry and limp, as if it were chopped several hours before; whole basil leaves would have added a brighter color to the dish and the earthy aromatics of freshly cut basil, which excites the palate. After the salads, we each chose an appetizer to try, too. I decided on the sausage crostini ($6.99) and my companion ordered the tuna sashimi ($11.99).  Other options included Eggplant Rollatini, chicken wings, calamari, mussels, stuffed mushrooms, among others. The tuna sashimi was exactly what we expected: ruby-toned tuna flesh, thinly sliced, and quickly pan seared and coated in black and white sesame seeds and then served with pickled ginger and a standard soy sauce mixture. The fish was fresh and was lightly sweet and cooked well. The sausage crostini was also very flavorful, though not the dish I was expecting, as it was more reminiscent of a Fenway Park sausage than a delicate and light crostini dish. The bread was the same soft French bread served in the bread basket, but it had been toasted before topped with a large sausage link and then a melted slice of cheese.  I love the idea of sausage crostini, which sounds like a flavorful and hearty dish, but would have preferred an interestingly flavored house made sausage either crumbled or chopped and then sprinkled with a light, fresh cheese, all atop a toasty and crunchy French or Italian bread. Read the rest... Italian 2010-08-24T01:17:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/aquitaine_dedham/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/aquitaine_dedham/#When:19:45:00Z 500 Legacy Place Dedham, MA, 02026 by Elaine Hom There’s nothing worse than a restaurant who has no idea who it is. You know what I mean—the posh city restaurant that moves to the ‘burbs and thinks it can charge the same price and serve the same chic city fare. Thankfully, Aquitaine in Dedham Legacy Place is refreshingly aware of who it is and provides city-quality food at Dedham prices. I’ve been to Aquitaine in Chestnut Hill, as well as Aquitaine in the South End, and I’ve always enjoyed myself. But Aquitaine in Dedham is clearly not trying to be the same Aquitaine as its pricier and fancier locales. It knows its audience. On the day we dined there, there were families with babies, people on dates, group outings—a much wider range than my experience at Aquitaine in Chestnut Hill or Aquitaine in the South End. As a result, the prices were more affordable, the menu a bit more accessible, and the atmosphere friendlier. (It would also be a little ridiculous to try to be a posh city spot when you can see City Sports and L.L. Bean across the way.) The décor is modern bistro chic. Red leather with brass studs and wood paneling give the feel of a real Parisian brasserie but with American sensibilities. Globule light fixtures add softness to the décor, as well as a warm light. It’s a very friendly ambiance that translates well, whether you’re on a date, out with a toddler, or out with friends. Pre Meal: We began our meal with beautiful complimentary gougeres, or small puffs of cheesy pastry.  These gougeres were warm and soft, with a strong savory cheese flavor. It’s the perfect way to start a meal—since it was full of flavor but not dense, it woke up my appetite. I don’t normally mention the bread and butter that come with a meal, but I’d be remiss in doing so here. The warm crusty bread (served in a paper sleeve) and butter were good, but the real star of this was the roasted garlic cloves that came with it. The sweet garlic was perfect when spread onto the rustic bread. For a drink, I opted for a virgin strawberry lemonade, which is usually served with vodka. It was muddled with basil, adding a wonderful refreshing kick, and it wasn’t too sweet, which is often the case with virgin drinks. Appetizers: We started with the Warm Beet Salad with Boucheron, Walnuts and Champagne Vinaigrette ($7.95), which ended up being much less standard than I had expected. The aged goat cheese added an unexpected twist, and the acidic greens and roasted walnuts on top made the salad warm, sweet and salty. We also tried the Tuna Tartare with Cucumber, Green Onion, Miso and Sesame Vinaigrette ($11.95), which was fairly standard. The flavors were layered with nutty and spicy kicks, and the tuna was fresh and had a wonderful texture. The presentation was beautiful and the flavors weren’t overpowering. The highlight of the appetizer course was the Mussels en Cassoulette with Sancerre, Shallots, Crème Fraiche and thyme ($9.95). Savory and sweet, the fresh thyme infused the meat as well as the broth.  The clean and tender mussels were full of flavor from the herbs and the white wine. After the mussels were done, dipping the bread in the broth was pure ecstasy. The only note I wrote about the flavor was “!!!” because it was almost beyond words. Read the rest... French 2010-08-19T19:45:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/abe_louies/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/abe_louies/#When:20:27:01Z 793 Boylston Street Boston, MA 02216 by Rachel Lebeaux Atmosphere: Want to experience a side of Boston dining enjoyed by the area’s top athletes, visiting movie stars, Back Bay 9-to-5ers kicking back after a day at the office and anybody with some money to spend who’s looking for a special night out? Then Abe & Louie’s, on Boylston Street in the Back Bay, is well worth the splurge. The steakhouse is the highlight of the Back Bay Restaurant Group, which also features next-door neighbor Atlantic Fish Company, Bouchee, Papa Razzi and more. In other words, this is a group of restaurateurs you can trust to treat your palate right. Its high-end American cuisine—centered on a top-notch wine list, Midwest-raised cattle and New England-sourced seafood—has garnered numerous awards from publications such as Wine Spectator and Boston Magazine. But don’t let those accolades intimidate you. “What’s nice is, we’re not pretentious,” says manager William Seldon III. “There’s a great vibe here, from business to casual.” There’s an outdoor patio for people-watching – and, of course, to be seen. Inside, there’s a lustrous, old-timey feel, with lots of dark wood and oversized, Renoir-esque murals that make diners feel as though they’re private guests of a rich art collector, perhaps. Elegant chandeliers suspend from the ceiling, enormous fresh-flower bouquets perfume the two dining rooms, and a full bar provides a perfect background for any dining or drinking combination you seek (although be prepared to talk over other diners – it was quite loud on the evening we visited). Service is perfectly in line with the atmosphere. Waiters wear suit jackets and some sport bow ties, and food is pushed around on carts (would you call that “Steaks on a Plane”?). My chair was pulled out for me and my napkin placed in my lap by our excellent waiter, Matthew, who has been with the restaurant for the past five years.  There’s even a buttonhole loop on the napkins, my male dining companion noted approvingly. You can easily see why Abe & Louie’s has attracted its share of movie stars who pass through Boston, as well as members of the Celtics, Red Sox and Patriots. In other words, this is a place for the city’s power brokers, but also for Bostonians who appreciate well-executed cuisine and the chance to hobnob in one of the top restaurants this city has to offer. Drinks: The restaurant’s sommelier tells us there are more than 600 bottles, featuring many Californian, South American and Italian wines. “Red’s obviously the leader – it goes with our cuisine,” he says. But pinot grigio, and even a nice rose on the patio, are also quite popular, he says. Red, white, sparkling and blush wines are served by the glass, ranging from a reasonable $7 to an extravagant $23. There are also half-bottles from $19 to $135 and bottles for every price range. Many martinis and other cocktails are served in “test tubes” submerged in beakers of cold water, which are then poured into glasses— a very pretty and creative presentation. Appetizers: We began with the complimentary bread basket, highlighted handsomely by crispy cinnamon-raisin bread, as well as a crunchy cheese-laden variety, a sesame seed-studded flat, matzo-like cracker, and your basic bread and butter (which helpfully has the word “Butter” imprinted on it, in case you were confused). Since we planned to focus on red meat later in the meal, we got started with some seafood by ordering the jumbo-lump crab cake with fresh fruit salsa ($15). It was stuffed with tender, shredded crab meat and hardly any mayo filler. Expertly browned on top, it didn’t even need the accompanying lemon juice squeeze to taste divine. It was served alongside a mound of salsa with mango, pineapple, tomato, green pepper, cantaloupe and mint, as well as a hefty tartar sauce. My companion said he liked this appetizer best – while pricey, if you’re going to order a crab cake, it might as well be superb. I felt a bit like a deer in headlights when I inquired as to the market price for the lobster macaroni and cheese and was told it was $28 for the appetizer portion! Seeing my hesitation, the restaurant offered us a partial portion for $10, and thank goodness I didn’t miss out, because this was an ooey, gooey masterpiece. Hearty lumps of fresh lobster meat were tossed with pasta shells, all enveloped in a blend of parmesan and dreamy gruyere. A coating of toasted parmesan crumbs across the top gave it some nice texture. This was comfort food at its classiest—I’m all about value, and I actually think I’d have paid nearly $30 for a full portion – and, trust me, I wanted a full portion. I would come back and order this as my main course. I couldn’t stop eating it, plunging my fork in and twirling the cheese around it several times with a half-hearted murmur of, “Just one more bite."Gush gush gush, you get the idea. Just order it for yourself, please. There are other appetizers, of course: award-winning clam chowder ($9) or pepper-seared ahi tuna with ginger soy sauce ($13). And you couldn’t help but notice the seafood tower as it lumbered by, a mélange of oysters, clams, shrimp, lobster, clams casino, oysters Rockefeller and crab-stuffed mushrooms that’s intended to serve six to eight people. The price of a full portion? A whopping $125. If that’s too rich for your blood, a half-portion can be had for a mere (wink wink) $65. Read the rest... American 2010-08-02T20:27:01-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/sagra_ristorante/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/sagra_ristorante/#When:19:00:00Z 910 Washington Street Dedham MA 02026 by Rachel Weiner Atmosphere: Sagra has been operating at its Somerville location since 2007, though I have not had the pleasure of eating there, but now Dedham is lucky enough to have Sagra’s second iteration in a familiar restaurant location, taking over the former location of Finz. The Dedham Sagra inhabits a large, but chic location that boasts a cheerful décor (red and black walls), free parking, a large function room, a cozy wrap-around bar, and, according to the manager on duty the evening we dined, New England’s only Vegawatt system, a system that turns vegetable oil into electricity, making Sagra one of the greenest restaurants in the area. Then, of course, there’s its extensive Italian menu, which creates a veritable food “festival” as the name Sagra warrants (Sagra means “festival” in Italian). Drinks: The festival continues onto the drink menu (is any true festival complete without a creative cocktail?) where delicious martinis and cocktails ($9) and an extensive wine list ($6-$12/glass) give diners a lot of options. I started with the red sangria and my partner ordered the house martini, the Sagratini (Grey Goose Citron, Sour Apple, Limoncello, Prosecco Floater, $ 9). Both were very good, but very strong drinks, so it took us our entire meal to sip our way through them. Dessert, thankfully, allowed us to give another one of their drink creations a try. I had the White Chocolate martini, which was creamy and smooth and a real treat! My companion had the Almond Joy martini that tasted just like the candy bar and was also a real treat. It would definitely be fun to come here after dinner just for some drinks, I think, since they have so many that sound intriguing on their menu! Appetizers: First, we received homemade focaccia served with a fresh ricotta cheese, which was seasoned with parsley and swimming in a pool of extra virgin olive oil for dipping. The bread was warm and light and perfectly oily for focaccia, while the fresh ricotta was creamy and cool, a nice contrast to the toasty bread. For our actual appetizers, we took the recommendation of our waitress and tried the calamari and the Caesar salad, and then, since one of the biggest differences between Dedham’s Sagra and the Somerville location is the raw bar, we tried the Granchio al Luigi, which was crab meat served with Thousand Island aioli. The calamari was our favorite and different than your average calamari. Lightly fried, they were crispy but not over-laden with oil and the squid were still tender and not too chewy. The batter was slightly spicy and lemony with hints of fresh herbs, and the dipping sauce also had a bit of a kick, while also a little creamy and cheesy. The Caesar salad was another classic that Sagra did very well! Normally I don’t order Caesar salads because they are too cheesy or the dressing is too thick. Sagra’s Caesar, however, was light and refreshing, allowing the crisp green of the romaine to shine through the creaminess of the dressing. The best part were the extra crispy croutons that were made from their leftover homemade focaccia. Read the rest... Italian 2010-07-20T19:00:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/stoddards_fine_food_ale/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/stoddards_fine_food_ale/#When:01:15:00Z 48 Temple Place Boston, MA 02111 by Bryan Roof Atmosphere: Stoddard’s is the type of place anyone can find comfort in. A little bit dark with the illusion of dank, the exposed brick, ornate woodwork, and tin ceiling hint at its Old Boston theme. The original occupant of the building was a corset store and once-vogue brassieres adorn the walls as a nod to the past. But C-cups are only one of the many historic details incorporated into this space’s newest incarnation. From the lampposts to the hand carved mahogany bar, Stoddard’s is the type of place that feels like old world New England should. The real showpiece at Stoddard’s, though, is the dinner menu. Chef Mark Cina executes a hearty and balanced menu that appeals to both your deep, meat-centric hunger and gastro pub sensibilities.  Food: Offerings like the House Charcuterie Plate ($market) feature quail egg-sausage, headcheese, pastrami, smoked duck breast, and rabbit gallotine––all made in house, a feat unto itself, never mind the rest of the menu.  I would venture to say that this is among the most well executed charcuterie plates in all of Boston. And while it’s theoretically big enough for two, the quality drives one to go it alone. Island Creek oysters ($13.50 per ½ dozen) grace the menu, accompanied by Meyer lemon granita and onion compote. The trimmings are nice but unnecessary for Island Creek’s best offering, which speaks for itself. The Aged Gouda and Cask Ale Fondue ($10), which comes with an assortment of crudités and house-made pretzel bites for dipping, is an addictively creamy concoction. The hoppiness of the ale cuts its richness, and adds dimension to the robust Gouda. Order one of their cask-conditioned ales to accompany the dish for best results. Clams Casino ($9) is another dish that feels right at home in a joint like this. Stuffed with shrimp, house-cured pancetta, and breadcrumbs, then topped with a dollop of lemon coulis, these bites improve on the classic without losing their identity in the shuffle. Entrees: Dishes like the Beef Rib Eye ($market) and Ballotine of Vermont Rabbit ($24) showcase the quality of ingredients with simplicity as their guiding principle. The Meyer Ranch-raised rib eye is prepared with the cap and eye separated. The cap is poached in fat, then seared, while the eye of the steak is roasted and glazed. This two-part cooking technique for this one steak does justice to the variance in the muscle that most chefs take for granted. The result is melt-in-your-mouth tender, with big beef flavor. The steak comes with grilled local asparagus, and a potato puree that’s so rich it could be classified as a “potato-butter” sauce.  Steak dinners never had it so good. The ballotine is no worse off. Boneless rabbit is stuffed with rabbit mousse, rolled, and wrapped in pancetta. The meat is tender, and the mousse offers a delicate textural contrast spiked with the aroma of fresh herbs and shallots. Joining the rabbit are sautéed stinging nettles, expertly glazed salsify, and a sweet prune compote that complements all the elements of the dish. Read the rest... American 2010-07-13T01:15:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/dbar/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/dbar/#When:21:44:00Z 1236 Dorchester Avenue Dorchester, MA 02125 by Rachel Lebeaux Atmosphere: dbar, in Dorchester’s Savin Hill neighborhood, is celebrated by many – and deservedly so—for its late-night happenings and weekly theme nights, including Show Tune Tuesdays and iThursdays, when guests fuel their own dance party via iPod playlists. But those who might know dbar only for its late-night entertainment are missing out, because the full-service restaurant—American cuisine with French, Asian and Italian emphases—has become a standout of the Dorchester dining scene since it opened five years ago. Credit dbar owner Brian Piccini and 26-year-old executive chef Chris Coombs, who has achieved some measure of celebrity-chef status thanks to successful stints in various area restaurants and an appearance this spring on the Food Network show “Chopped.” (The pair’s new venture, the French restaurant Deuxave, is slated to open in the Back Bay this fall.) “I’m always really attracted to what I can grow and serve myself,” said Coombs, who backs up this claim with dbar’s rooftop garden, from which he estimates 60 percent of the produce he serves stems. The tranquil garden offers ruffles of mesclun lettuce, verdant arugula, fresh herbs and even vibrant red nasturtium flowers with edible, peppery petals. You can dine just below this rooftop garden, in a cozy outdoor patio accented by lime and noir chairs and aluminum-brushed tables. The restaurant’s 55-seat dining room, bisected by a black leather banquette that separates diners from the bar, is outfitted in dark wood and an exposed brick wall. It has a swanky feel, yet you never doubt Coombs’ claim that guests dressed any way they like – “even in shorts and flip-flops”—are welcome. The result is a mix of people that truly represents the diversity of the neighborhood. Drinks: dbar’s cocktail menu is every bit the selection you would expect for a restaurant and nightclub venue. Our waiter, Scott, recommended the huckleberry rhubarb martini ($9), with homemade rhubarb puree, rum and a cache of huckleberries across the bottom. It was a thick, fruity concoction – about as healthy and refreshing as cocktail hour gets. The produce-themed drinks continued with the cucumber gin blossom ($9), featuring gin infused with rose petal and cucumber flavors. The deep-red drink was garnished with a cucumber slice. It wasn’t our favorite – maybe gin just isn’t our thing – but you had to be impressed by the subtle, flowery notes. If you’re familiar with the Indian drink by the same name, you’ll probably gravitate toward the mango lassi ($8.50). Scott told us it was “like a Creamsicle” and he was right. The luscious cocktail, made of yogurt-infused vodka and mango nectar, felt lighter than the Indian drink but just as satisfying. Other cocktails include the sake green teatini ($8.50) and the passion fruit and blood orange cosmo ($8.50). There’s also wine, beer and a full bar. Appetizers: Coombs’ creativity was apparent from the start, when our complimentary bread basket came accompanied with a trio olive oil-based dips: balsamic vinegar, cracked red pepper with parsley and (our favorite) roasted garlic. Even if you normally lay off the bread before the meal, be sure to give each of these a try. I normally don’t order salads when I eat out—I love my vegetables but feel salads often don’t represent the peak of a chef’s talents. But following the rooftop garden tour at dbar, how could I resist? At Coombs’ suggestion, we tried the “five vegetables of spring” salad ($10). A crispy potato basket (we laughingly said it reminded us of a bird’s nest) encased fluttery greens, which sprouted from the casing like the vegetables on the roof emerged from their planters. Around the edge of the plate was a smattering of vegetables—fava beans, asparagus tips, spring onions, English peas, sprightly red, green and yellow peppers and those zingy nasturtium flower petals. Some salads are mostly reliant on add-ons like cheese or bacon, but the vegetables themselves, dressed in a light avocado-based dressing, were rightly the focus here. In the fried calamari appetizer ($9.50), the squid rings were arranged in a pyramid and encrusted in rice and graham flours, giving them a hint of sweetness comparable to a pie crust or a ginger snap. It’s this kind of pairing that gives dbar’s dishes their uniqueness, causing you to swap notes with your dining companion on what exactly you’re each experiencing. They were matched with slivers of pickled red onion and mild green papaya and surrounded by a swoop of green curry aioli. Next up were the Thai-style P.E.I. mussels ($9.50), steamed in a broth of kaffir lime, coconut milk and garlic. The plump mussels were pinwheeled around the shallow bowl and sprinkled with chopped tomatoes and shredded cilantro and mint leaves. It’s the one appetizer I polished off while hot – well-spiced seafood like this shouldn’t be allowed to sit too long! As proof that Coombs draws his inspiration from all 50 states, our seafood selections wound down with the Hawaiian bigeye tuna ceviche ($14). Marinated in citrus juices and spices, the cubed, sushi-grade tuna was interlaced with julienned cucumbers and carrots and chopped peppers and sprinkled with black sesame seeds. The over-sized, paper-thin taro root chips are a nice, earthy base for scooping this very summery dish. I wasn’t in a beef mood on this particular evening, but for those who are, consider sampling the herb-crusted beef carpaccio ($10) or the beef tenderloin mini tacos ($11). Read the rest... American 2010-07-05T21:44:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/mumbai_chopstix/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/mumbai_chopstix/#When:20:31:00Z 254 Newbury Street Boston, MA 02116 by Elaine Hom Newbury Street is a destination in Boston for tourists, travelers, shoppers, and diners. But I’ve always found it difficult to eat there. Most restaurants cost an arm and a leg, and the more affordable places tend to not taste very good and bank on their location and name to draw in customers. Mumbai Chopstix has proven to be one of the few exceptions to this rule. Catchy name aside, Mumbai Chopstix specializes in the combination of Indian and Chinese flavors.  As the child of Chinese immigrants and someone who grew up eating the best home-cooked Chinese food ever, I’m a hard sell on most things Chinese, especially when fused with Indian flavors.  But don’t call it fusion—fusion is usually the marriage of two cuisines that have nothing to do with each other culturally. “Back home, it’s a cuisine in itself,” said Ranveer Brar, corporate chef for One World Cuisine Restaurant Group, which owns and operates Mumbai Chopstix. “Thanks to the Chinese migration, it’s an intercultural culinary exchange. I hate to call it fusion.” According to the menu, the Hakka Chinese migrated to northern India due to dynasty changes centuries ago.  According to Brar, it is the second favorite food across India, behind traditional Indian food.  Mumbai Chopstix is a reflection of that, with all foods having an Indian influence, but also cooked in wok.  “It’s Chinese food that flirts with Indian spices,” said Brar, “but it’s not overwhelming.” Atmosphere: Set in a traditional brownstone synonymous with Newbury Street, Mumbai Chopstix doesn’t really feel like a restaurant at first.  Touches from the original owner, most certainly an old Boston socialite—such as molding, windows and even a decorative fireplace—blend with original Indian artwork and a large high-top communal table filled with Indian spices, which gives the feeling that diners are sitting in the living room of a wealthy Indiaphile businessman.  But it’s not entirely traditional—clear Lucite-like tables and chairs fill the dimly lit dining room, giving it a modern air. The patio mimics any other patio you’d see on Newbury Street, and the bar downstairs has a slightly more “chic” feel to it. With bright red lights and bubble shaped mirrors leading the way to the bathroom, it almost feels more like a trendy Vegas lounge—quite different than the upstairs main dining room. And amazingly, the artwork is also the work of the chef, Brar. “Kitchens can be monotonous,” he said. “But art is a passion of mine, and it’s a creative outlet.” The art is downright beautiful. I would’ve guessed an expensive artist was commissioned to do this work, certainly not the chef. When it comes to both art and cuisine, Brar knows what he’s doing. Pre-Meal: To start, I ordered a Red Lotus ($5), a non-alcoholic tangy blend of lychee and cranberry. I’ve been a fan of lychee for a very long time. On hot summer nights during my childhood, my mother would crack open a can of lychee from the fridge and hand out toothpicks for us to dig in as dessert.  I’ve never seen anyone use fresh lychee, so it’s safe to say that most places use canned lychee as well.  Since the canned stuff comes in heavy syrup, I’ve always found that lychee martinis or other lychee-based drinks are way too sweet. This was not the case. While I definitely got notes of the lychee, I didn’t get the overwhelming sweetness that goes hand in hand with canned lychee. The Red Lotus went really well with the meal; while it was refreshing and light, it had enough flavor to stand up against the Indian and Chinese flavors. My companion tried the Mango Julius ($5), a frothy mango drink that is clearly based on, you guess it, Orange Julius. I found this light and fluffy drink sweeter than the Red Lotus and better suited as a dessert drink than something to go with the meal. But anything served with a slice of mango and a paper flower, I’m happy to order. Our friendly and helpful server also brought a selection of three sauces -- a soy ginger, a Mumbai salsa, and a green and red chili vinegar. The soy ginger was not as gingery as I had feared (I’m not a huge fan of too much ginger) and added a nice layer of saltiness. The vinegar was too spicy for my taste buds, though my companion loved it. The real piece of art here was the beautiful Mumbai salsa. With tamarind, cumin and green chilis, the sauce was thick and sweet, yet savory, with the perfect kick. The flavors reminded me of a really good black bean and garlic sauce. My companion remarked that he could put it on toast in the morning, and I wholeheartedly agreed. I slathered it on everything I ate that night. Before our appetizers arrived, we had a lovely amuse bouche of Chili Paneer with a tamarind sauce. The Chili Paneer were triangles of a chewy cheese similar to a hard, fresh mozzarella, battered and fried with a sweet and savory sauce.  The texture reminded me more of tofu than cheese, and it held the rich sauce really well. Even my companion, who does not like cheese, enjoyed these. Read the rest... Indo-Chinese 2010-06-27T20:31:00-05:00 http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/post_390/ http://www.tablecritic.com/index.php?/site/post_390/#When:17:00:00Z 406 Stuart Street Boston, MA 02116 By Rachel Weiner Atmosphere: Post 390 is a gorgeous two story restaurant with open kitchens, three cozy fireplaces, track can lighting in a custom drop ceiling, sleek, dark wood bars, and black brickwork that takes up a prominent corner in Back Bay area, at the site of the former Back Bay Post Office Annex, walking distance from both Copley Square and the South End. If you’ve come for a before-or-after dinner drink, sit at the 25-seat bar on the first floor, warmed in colder months by a 4-sided glass fireplace. Or, if you decide to stay and dine, climb the enormous wrought-iron staircase to the second floor and enjoy the sweeping views of Copley Square’s Trinity Church and Hancock Tower, an exhibition kitchen, modern wine displays and two more inviting fireplaces. Post 390 also has a lot of staff constantly walking around and checking in, including managers, so the atmosphere is very friendly and welcoming. As a diner at the restaurant, one never feels neglected or forgotten, but rather intently cared for and looked after. Drinks: An extensive cocktail, wine and beer list helps ease diners into their night. Their cocktails ($8-$12) are creative twists on classic cocktails. I began with a “No.39” that was margarita-esque, but with a splash of grapefruit juice and house-smoked sea salt mixed right into the drink. It was a refreshing summer beverage, a little tart with a hint of salt.  My companion ordered the “Boston Garden,” which was a gin-based drink, with cucumber garnish – another refreshing mix and very light. The beer list ($5 to $8, draught; $5 to $19, bottled) includes everything from basic Miller Light, to local, small batch brews, to Belgian Trappist style ale – truly something for everyone!  The wine list is equally extensive ($8 to $13, glass; $28 to $75, bottle), including long lists of American, French, Italian, and International wines, as well as sparkling and dessert wines. Appetizers: Since the drink menus were so large, I anticipated a fairly vast food menu, too, and I was certainly correct in my assumption. Our waitress recommended we begin our meal with their tasty fried Ipswich clams ($17.50), served with a house made Rhode Island tartar sauce. The clams, dredged in a slightly spicy batter before being thrown into hot oil for deep frying, are paired with red jalepeno peppers placed in the same batter. The clams were smooth and buttery and the batter had a delicious flavor, as did the tartar sauce. I’m not a big fan of fried foods, so I only had a few bites, but these would certainly be a hit at the bar, while throwing back a few drinks with friends. The second appetizer we tried was the crab and spinach dip ($11) served hot with crunchy pita chips. Huge lumps of crab meat swam in a creamy base with big green spinach leaves. The dip had a little kick to it and was extremely well-flavored – probably our favorite dish for the evening. Other appetizers included tuna tartare ($14.50), calamari ($11.50), a large raw bar ($14 to $40) which includes an impressive “Shellfish Tower,” and a cheese plate that paired local Chatham camembert and wild boar prosciutto. Soups and salads ($8 to $21.50) make up another large section of the menu and my fellow diner and I tried the arugula salad ($8.50) and the gazpacho ($8). The salad was very simple, but well done. Peppery arugula leaves were topped with a light creamy lemon dressing and shavings of salty parmesan – a great summer salad. The chilled gazpacho was also simple, with bright vegetable flavors and topped with pink baby shrimp and cool and creamy avocado slices. Flatbreads ($13 to $14.50) are also included on the Post 390 menu and are a crossover between appetizers and entrees. We didn’t get to try one, but the goat cheese and kalamata olive flatbread, topped with carmelized onion and arugula sounds so interesting and delicious! Read the rest... American 2010-06-22T17:00:00-05:00