Papa Razzi

Wednesday, December 16, 2009 at 06:35 AM | Posted by caroloc

155 Worcester Road
Framingham, MA 01702

by Chef German Lam & Denise Chew

Introduction:
I’ve always loved Papa Razzi restaurants but hadn’t thought too deeply about why – until dinner last week at the Route 9 location in Framingham when I went with the intent of articulating it. 

The excellent food, combined with great service makes this restaurant a joy that delights me - a service sensitive consumer with equally sensitive taste buds, every time.  The warm and pleasant atmosphere of the dining room backed by a view of the open kitchen and its brick oven creates the perfect stage for a food experience you’ll enjoy. 

As we entered the restaurant, my Chef cum Food Coach companion German Lam (http://www.glamfoods.com) and I were greeted, seated, and introduced to our server Allison who tantalized us with descriptions of food and wine pairings that made it nearly impossible for us to choose a specific dinner.  We ultimately elected to have a tasting menu of dishes recommended by the executive chef, Jason King, and the Back Bay Restaurant Group’s concept chef, James T. Martin.  It was a treat.

Appetizers:
We started with a delectable fresh pink Beef Carpaccio ($8.99) topped with capers and lemon, lending it just the right amount of saltiness and zest that made it melt in my mouth.  Next came a slice of eggplant, lightly breaded and fried with a touch of roasted garlic that brought out the other flavors, layered with tomato and topped with baby greens - Melanzana Fritta ($7.99). The basil oil and balsamic glaze highlighted the buttery, creamy smooth eggplant. 

A rustic tomato soup, Papa Pomodoro (cup $2.99) ended this trifecta and simply made me smile. For as the beef was savory and the eggplant buttery, this dish was clean.  The tomatoes were fresh.  The base was stock, not cream.  The thickening done with foccacia croutons.  The topping, an aged parmesan.  If I had an Italian grandmother, this is what I would imagine her soup to be – simple, brightly flavored, wholesome, and enough to make my taste buds sing. 

Allison paired these dishes with “Tocai Fruilano Bastianich” which staged them spectacularly and then she brought out the next course – salads.  We sampled both the Cesare and the Panzanella. 

The Cesare Salad ($7.75) was excellent but the Panzanella ($7.50) was new to me and a treat.  Whoever, in whatever moment of inspiration, decided to soak bread in vinegar and then toss it with capers, tomatoes, nutty arugula and other greens before topping it with a creamy goat cheese vinaigrette, will forever have my gratitude. 

The experience thus far has been punctuated with bread sticks (hand made daily) and fresh focaccia bread with parsley, basil, rosemary, and olive oil still warm from the oven.  For the bread lovers of the world, this would be an all too easy place to overindulge. 

Dinner:
The meal did not come without stories – both Executive Chef Jason King and Chef James Martin stopped by our table to greet us and share a bit of their craft.  A slowly roasted chicken in lemon and garlic - Gallo al Forno ($17.99) - was the recipe with which Chef Martin got his job with the Back Bay Restaurant Group and the Spaghetti alla Bolognese ($14.99), which the restaurant already served was the reason he took the position.  A single taste of each was all that I needed (although I certainly had more) to convince me of the truth of his tale. 

The slowly roasted chicken was a piece of art – tender, moist meat with a crispy skin in a demi-glaze of chicken and roasted garlic, surrounded by spinach and garnished beautifully.  The Bolognese had light, clear, and distinct flavors and I could taste the lightness of the veal, and the wine soaked mushrooms peeking out of the pasta.  Jason King’s Filetto Balsamico ($25.99) creation was sweet meat – a perfect medium rare, settled just right, and surrounded by vegetables I can’t name because they were purely secondary in my enjoyment of the filetto.  They were well coupled and transported every bit of flavor to my mouth.  The accompanying wines, paired by our server, chosen by the chain’s sommelier with 20+ years of experience were perfectly matched and have made it onto my own personal favorites list. 

Dessert:
The menu descriptions didn’t do the desserts (dolce) justice.  The Frutta al Forno, grilled fruit with ice cream, and Torta Cioccolatto made me wish that I had broken all conventions and started with dessert.  Like many restaurants, the dessert portions were generous and easily shared to allow a perfect finish without the specter of over indulgence. 

Assessment:
For all that I can say, food descriptions that I can write, and pictures I can paint, for me it boils down to value. I value the escape; not food quantity (portions were generous); not amenities (there were many); not the wine list (extensive and excellent).  What impressed me most about this experience is that it was exactly that – an experience. Not just food. Not just a pretty setting.  It was more than a greeting, more than the server, more than the chef and more than the food.  It was the combination of them all in sufficient and correct portion to whisk me temporarily away from my daily grind and give me a few hours of simple uncomplicated tasty pleasure.  A perfect balance.

Special Note:
The Papa Razzi menu currently offers gluten free pasta and will soon have a section of twelve new gluten free dishes to delight the taste buds of celiac sufferers.  Additionally, the kitchen can easily customize their dishes for other dietary needs. 

Address: 155 Worcester Road Framingham, MA 01702
Phone Number: 508-848-2300
Website:http://www.paparazzitrattoria.com/index.cfm/page/Home
Cuisine: Italian
Price: $9-$27
Recommended Dishes: Melanzana Fritta, Panzanella, Filetto Balsamico, Gallo al Forno
Hours: Lunch: 1130am to 3pm: Dinner: 4pm to 11pm; Brunch: Sat & Sun: 1130am-3pm
Public Transit & Parking: parking lot on-site & Framingham Bus Stop
Reservations: accepted
Payment Options: all major credit cards