North 26

Monday, January 25, 2010 at 02:29 PM | Posted by caroloc

26 North Street
Boston, MA 02109-1509

by Elaine Hom

In the past, “hotel restaurant” has always been somewhat of a slight when describing a restaurant. It brings to mind bad pre-cooked food, cheesy carpets and waiters wearing the same garb as the hotel staff. But things have changed in the Boston area. Restaurants such as KO Prime in the Nine Zero Hotel, Henrietta’s Table and Rialto in the Charles Hotel, Eastern Standard in the Hotel Commonwealth, plus many more, have proven that the term “hotel restaurant” doesn’t have to be derogatory—it’s a badge of honor.  North 26, connected to the Millennium Bostonian and part of its latest $35 million renovation, is no exception.

To be a successful hotel restaurant, it’s important to be both a destination restaurant but appeal to the masses of hotel guests. Executive Chef Brian Flagg firmly believes in this mantra.
“You’re never going to be everything to all people,” he said, “but it was important to us that the guests didn’t feel any air of pretentiousness when they walked in or saw our menu.” It’s clear that Flagg put this mantra in practice in his menu, ranging from spicy clam pozole and comforting pork osso buco (more on that later) to corn dogs, mac ‘n cheese, and burgers.
Like many Boston chefs, Flagg insists on using local produce when available, and seeks out relationships with New England farmers.  “It keeps the money local and it’s always fresh,” he explained, “and we cook it with love and end up with a solid product. Our food isn’t intimidating—at the end of the day, our shellfish stew is simply a shellfish stew—but it will cause you to pause and think, ‘Wow, this is really good shellfish stew.’”

Atmosphere:
Architecturally sleek and modern, North 26 is inviting and, above else, not stuffy. With its own entrance, it doesn’t even feel attached to the hotel unless a guest needs to use the restroom, located in the Millennium Bostonian’s beautiful lobby. The wood paneling and open concept design (but not an open kitchen, as the kitchen is downstairs) has an inviting air without the sound of crashing pots and pans. The front bar is a bit busier, with a great surrounding view of North St. and windows that open to create al fresco dining in the warm weather (patio dining is also available per season).

The bar menu invites the casual snacker to sit here and enjoy a cocktail with some tapas style bites, including Jonah crab rangoons ($5) and mini oyster po’boys ($5), which are available until 1 am. It’s the kind of place I’d feel comfortable pulling up at 12 am after a night out in Faneuil Hall to grab a bite and enjoy a last round of cocktails before going home

The enormous wine rack behind the bar is one of the coolest aspects of the restaurant. Behind the wine rack is a private table for large parties, which leads to the main dining room. Dimmer and quieter, the main dining room is ideal for those who want to avoid the hustle and bustle of North Street and bar goers out for a small bite and large drink.

The service was attentive but not intrusive, and our friendly server explained every dish to us in detail and with clear love for the food. As a former server, I know the only way to successfully speak about the food to customers is if you truly believe in the food, and it was clear that she did.

Drinks:
The bottled wine list was comprehensive if not predictable. I saw quite a few familiar producers on there, including several options from Sonoma Cutrer and Cakebread. We opted for a cocktail rather than wine, though the wines by the glass list seemed to have something for everyone, ranging from $7 to $18.

The cocktail menu had a number of drinks for all kinds of people, from dessert martinis including the cupcake martini ($12), to traditional cocktails with a twist, such as the bloody Manhattan ($12). Our server explained that the bar did not use any kind of sour mix or other premixed drink ingredient, and opted for fresher options such as lime juice or lemon juice. I tried the Autumn Orchid ($11), which consisted of pear flavored Gray Goose, pomegranate puree and lime juice. Refreshing without being overly sweet (as pink drinks tend to be), I would love to sip one in the summer with some bar bites while people watching in the al fresco dining.

I also have a certain level of respect for a place that carries Louis XIII, the most expensive cognac in the world. At $125 for a single serving (and actually cheaper than I’ve seen at most restaurants, it’s usually about $150), it’s not a big seller, but it adds to touch of class to a bar when you see that Baccarat crystal bottle of a cognac known to have a finish that lasts for up to an hour. The manager also informed me that they just finished their first bottle since opening last March, a rite of passage for any young restaurant.

Appetizers:
We started with the New England clam chowder ($7). I really enjoyed the consistency of it, as I don’t like overly thick chowders. Too thick means too much flour added to thicken it, and I’d rather have my chowder slightly thick (just thick enough to cling to the spoon) due to a long simmering process.  This was one of those chowders - good clam flavor, full of cherrystone clams and potatoes.

Next we tried the roasted Woodbury clams pozole ($9), a beautiful (albeit small) bowl of clams served in a slightly spicy broth with puffy hominy, chunks of bacon, and a delightful cilantro mole emulsion. A wonderfully balanced dish, it was smoky, spicy and salty, and I found myself dunking bread in the broth to soak up every bit of the flavors.

We also tried the balsamic braised shortrib of beef ($11), a small portion of fork tender shortrib over tangy Gorgonzola potato puree and with thin slices of Kobe beef. A beautifully plated dish, I found the Gorgonzola potato puree matched beautifully with the sweet saltiness of the balsamic braised beef, and a slight crunch from the grilled leeks atop. The portion was small, but with the richness of all components, I don’t think I could have eaten much more of it.  The baked semolina and mascarpone dumplings ($11), was a savory dish, with braised rabbit, shallots, mushrooms and tarragon.

We tried a few bits off the bar menu, as well. The lobster deviled eggs ($5) were creamy and sweet, with a kick of herbs and choice bits of lobster. The highlight of the appetizer round was the heavenly chickpea fries ($5). With a squeeze of lime and a healthy dipping of the harissa aioli, my dining guest and I could not stop exclaiming aloud how amazing they were. Thin and crispy without being greasy or oily and served in an adorable mini frying basket, they tasted like a lighter version and more finger-food friendly version of falafel.

Entrees:
The entrée portions were hearty and large, compared to the small bites of the appetizers. But that’s not a complaint—I believe that appetizers are meant to stimulate hunger and increase appetite, and that’s exactly what our appetizer portions did. By the time that our entrees came, we were ready.

For entrees, I had the pan-roasted venison ($26) with a red currant jus, caraway spaetzle and braised Brussels sprouts with bacon. The venison was cooked to perfection, and the crunchy toasted caraway in the spaetzle worked wonderfully with the red currant jus. The highlight of the dish for me was the braised Brussels sprouts with bacon. The braising brought out sweet caramelization in the Brussels sprouts, harmonizing with the natural bitterness of the vegetable, and the thick bits of salty bacon brought it together. The Brussels sprouts with bacon is also available as a side.

My companion opted for the New England shellfish stew ($27), which brought back memories of the traditional Portuguese shellfish stew I used to have growing up in southeastern Massachusetts. The stew was heavy on shellfish, including lobster, scallops, mussels, and clams. The spicy chourico flavored the broth with just a hint of spice, and the calamari was unexpectedly tender. The grilled peasant bread was great for sopping up broth and absorbing those great flavors.

The Berkshire pork osso buco ($25) was my favorite entrée of the night. We were in love at first bite. Falling off the bone, the meat was tender and rich, while the whipped potatoes were light yet buttery. The apple-cheddar gremolata highlighted the savory sweetness of the pork, and pearl onions and mushrooms added another layer of savory to the dish. I couldn’t imagine anything better than curling up with a big bowl of this in front of a fire on a cold New England night.

Dessert:
It was hard to make room for dessert after such a warm comforting meal, but we knew we had to try some of the really intriguing menu items. First was the Boston cream whoopie pie ($8), which Chef Flagg explained to us is often the first Boston cream pie his out-of-town guests have ever tried.  What an introduction! The thick white cakes with the vanilla bean pastry cream between are not quite whoopie pie in the sense that you could pick it up and eat with your hands, but it’s a creative spin on a traditional Boston dish. The flavors weren’t anything unique, but who wants something unique when diving into a Boston cream pie?

Next came the N26 pear fritters with three sauces (8). The warm fritters were crispy on the outside and doughy on the inside while still managing to be light. With a milk chocolate sauce, a butterscotch sauce and sangria syrup, we didn’t know how the dish’s flavors would mesh. What the pear fritters ultimately offer is a little something for everyone. For those with a sweet tooth who like rich desserts, the thick milk chocolate sauce was the perfect dipping sauce. For those who prefer tart desserts on the lighter side, the sangria syrup was tangy and fruity without being too sour. And the smooth thin butterscotch sauce was for everyone in between. My only complaint about the dish was the lack of pear flavor—I would have expected pear fritters to have pear chunks, but I didn’t really taste much of it at all. That said, they were still delicious.

We also sampled the caramel apple tart ($8), a fairly traditional dish of a puff pastry shell, brown sugar crumble, and homemade cinnamon ice cream on top. For someone not looking for a heavy dessert, this is the right choice. The dried cranberries and smooth cinnamon ice cream prevented the dish from being too rich, while the puff pastry and brown sugar crumble kept the dessert light.

The masterpiece of the dessert round came in the form of the German chocolate peanut butter torte ($8).  We didn’t even order it, but I am beyond thrilled that the chef decided to send one out anyway. With dark chocolate cake and layers of peanut butter mousse and a crispy coconut topping, I was worried it would be too cloyingly sweet. But a dark chocolate sauce (I saw it as more of a soup) filling the bowl assuaged any fears I had. Each bite was heaven, with the crispy coconut balancing the soft cake and airy mousse, and the somewhat bitter dark chocolate soup soaking into each bite played down the sweetness. It came with a strawberry, which I found a bit extraneous, though I very much enjoyed dipping that strawberry into the “soup.”

Assessment:
Chef Flagg is one to keep an eye on, and his passion for good food is clear. With a friendly staff, warm atmosphere, and above all else, excellent food, I know I will be returning on my own in the future. It’s exactly the kind of place I like to go—delicious food without pretension, decent prices, and an unbeatable location.

Address: 26 North Street, Boston, MA 02109-1509
Phone: 617-557-3640
Website: http://north26restaurant.com/
Cuisine: American
Price:  $5 bar bites, $7-12 for appetizers, $22-27 for entrees
Hours: Restaurant: Mon-Fri: 630am-1030pm; Sat-Sun 7am-1030pm
Bar: Sun-Thu: 11am-12am; Fri-Sat: 11am-1am
Features: patio/al fresco dining, full bar, ballroom for private events
Recommendations: Chickpea fries, roasted Woodbury clam pozole, Berkshire pork osso buco, German chocolate peanut butter torte.
Public Transit and Parking: Street parking, valet parking available through hotel, parking garages in area. On the T: Blue or Green line to Government Center
Reservations: accepted
Payment Options: All major credit cards