Nico

Monday, February 22, 2010 at 08:01 PM | Posted by caroloc

417 Hanover Street
Boston, MA 02113

By Bryan Roof

Atmosphere:
Occupying a cozy, well-decorated space deep along the North End’s bustling Hanover Street, is Nico. Just a few doors down from its sister restaurant, Strega, Nico’s hues of red, white, and black, make for a romantic dinner locale or even sexier late night hangout--at first glance it might even appear permanently dressed for Valentine’s Day. The bar features gentle lighting that invites a late-night crowd of attractive North-Enders to linger over glasses of wine from the expertly crafted list of Italian varietals. The menu delivers all the Italian classics that long-time residents have come to expect from this area of Boston, although chef Salvatore Firicano, a Sicilian native, puts his own talented spin on the flavors and combinations, to good measure. 

Appetizers:
For starters, freshly baked focaccia comes to the table with a bowl of plump cerignola olives swimming in almost-fluorescent green virgin oil, lightly scented with garlic and chiles. The focaccia has a crisp exterior that gives way to a chewy warm center. The combination is enough to make you forget that you’re actually there for dinner.

Our appetizers included Mama Rosetta’s Meatball ($9.95), Pan-Seared Scallops ($17.95), Shrimp Parmesan ($17.95), and Burrata ($14.95), a creamy mozzarella that was a special on the evening we dined. Mama Rosetta’s interpretation of the “meatball” dwarfs versions seen at numerous other Italian joints. It is big. And the flavor is big too. Swimming in a rich tomato sauce, this meatball is redolent of veal and wild mushrooms, and is as tender as the hefty dollop of creamy ricotta cheese served alongside. The pan-seared scallops are a homerun in many ways. Perfectly golden scallops are perched on meltingly tender and smoky grilled eggplant, and the whole is doused heavily with a sprightly basil pesto that gives you summertime daydreams even in the middle of winter. Toasted pine nuts garnish the plate and add a nice textural contrast. The shrimp parmesan is a powerful combination of crispy fried shrimp topped with marinara and a heavy shot of melted parmesan. The flavor is robust without overpowering the shrimp. The burrata is served with a tomato and arugula salad topped with grilled artichoke hearts and reduced balsamic vinegar. The cheese is buttery and the peppery arugula, acidic tomatoes, and smoky-sweet artichokes cut its richness and complement its delicacy.

Entrées:
Our entrees included the Rigatoni alla Sal ($24.95) and the Filet Mignon ($37.95), and both were hearty in flavor and ample in size. The rigatoni is tossed in a black truffle cream sauce with shrimp, scallops, wild mushrooms, and peas strewn throughout. The scent of truffles perfumes the dish, as the light cream sauce just coats the perfectly al dente pasta. The seafood is cooked gently, its delicate ocean flavor coming through with each bite. Earthy mushrooms complement the truffle flavor, and the peas, along with a smattering of fresh herbs, add a fresh note. The filet, while a regular on the menu, was specially prepared on this particular evening with an espresso bean crust and a rich coffee reduction. The flavor and texture of both the sauce and crust is surprisingly delightful. Slightly sweet with a bitter finish, the sauce complements the richness of the beef, while the mildly crunchy crust adds a toothsome contrast. Served with a potato puree and sautéed vegetables, this dish could easily satisfy die-hard meat and potato lovers out for something less than ordinary.

Desserts:
Desserts were simple but classic. The cannoli, or more appropriately, Cannolo had a rich, creamy, sweet ricotta filling with the slightest hint of citrus, inside an ultra-crisp crust. A light dusting of powdered sugar and a drizzle of chocolate sauce complete it. The Profiteroles were filled with a sweet custard, and buried beneath a thick layer of chocolate mousse. The simplicity of custard, chocolate, and pastry doesn’t disappoint.

Assessment:
The ambience and food at Nico offers an ideal setting for an evening out with that special someone, or even just a quick bite at the bar. The staff goes out of their way to accommodate and make you feel welcome. The menu features many of the classics you’ve come to expect from Italian eateries, but done up with a palpable authenticity. Even the newer renditions seem timeless. With flavors as thick as their Italian accents, you really can’t go wrong at Nico.

Address: 417 Hanover Street, Boston, MA 02113
Phone: 617-742-0404
Website: http://www.nicoboston.com/
Cuisine: Italian
Booze: full bar
Price: $9.95 - $37.95
Hours: Mon-Fri: 4pm-12am; Sat & Sun: noon to 12am
Parking: on-street or valet.
Reservations: accepted
Payment Options: all major credit cards