Isabella’s Restaurant

Monday, January 04, 2010 at 03:29 PM | Posted by caroloc

566 High Street
Dedham, MA 02026

by Rachel Weiner

Atmosphere:
Isabella’s Restaurant is a deliciously cozy little restaurant tucked neatly amongst the shops and take-out joints in Dedham’s town center. Its inviting blue awning and copper letters give way to an artsy interior a la Isabella Gardner.  Murals liven up the walls while dark woods and leathers create a warmth and intimacy that felt more genuine than many of the chic downtown Boston restaurants. The restaurant was full on a snowy, December Tuesday night with rosy-cheeked couples and old, married regulars who snuggled in the booths sipping wine and sharing desserts.

The wait staff was also particular warm, which for me can really make a restaurant spectacular. Our waitress was attentive, knowledgeable of the food and wines on the menu, and joked around with us which, made our experience at Isabella’s more personal and memorable than the food and atmosphere alone could have done. 

Drinks & Appetizers:
Isabella’s has a full bar and an extensive wine list.  My dinner partner ordered a Glenfiddich 12 year Single Malt Scotch, while I ordered a glass of 2007 Laetitia Estate Pinot Noir at our waitress’ suggestion. The pours were extremely generous and the wine was a fantastic suggestion – it was elegantly fruity, with deep, earthy tones – and it paired well with everything we ordered.

Complimentary fresh bread and a flavorful chickpea tapenade (reminiscent of hummus but not entirely the equivalent) bathed in green olive oil arrived at our table with our drinks as we perused the tantalizing appetizer menu.

For those looking for drinks and bites, there is a Tavern Menu available as well that looks similar to their lunch menu. It describes scrumptious delicacies like different types of macaroni and cheese or hamburgers that I hope one day to return to sample.

This evening we decided to stick strictly to the dinner menu to order appetizers from. We began with seared tuna sashimi ($11) that came with a smear of spicy mayonnaise on the plate in a very Japanese-style art presentation. The tuna was classically prepared, crusted with white and black sesame seeds; it had barely touched a hot pan before it was placed upon our plate and served to us - its rich jewel-toned flesh glistening from the white platter.  It was, of course, perfectly flavored, the sweet fish only enhanced by the spicy and creamy condiment.

We also enjoyed a caramelized apple salad ($11) that was adorned with shredded white Vermont cheddar cheese and salted cashews atop baby greens. This was completed with a tangy mustard vinaigrette that really brought out the sweetness of the apples and the sharpness of the cheddar cheese. This surprised me – usually shredded cheese gets lost in a salad, becoming flavorless, empty calories on a bed of greens. This particular dressing, however, worked with the cheese and allowed it to really shine.

What I really loved about the dishes was the way Isabella’s took their artsy yet homey interior and inspiration and brought it into their food – they played with color and presentation and flavors the same way Isabella Gardner played with the art and displays in her home (now the museum downtown).

Many fine dining restaurants offer a much more breathtaking or artsy presentation, but pair this with a very simple, music-less, atmosphere in order to enhance the food. Isabella’s, however, mirrored food and décor, and it really worked for them. It was a kind and friendly place that invited us to eat, not a cold and trendy place that demanded we eat.

Entrees:
After such satisfying and tasty appetizers, we were very enthusiastic about our entrees. I ordered the Giannone Farms Chicken ($18), which was served over butternut squash risotto (what I had admittedly ordered the entire dish to sample).  I loved the colors of this dish: the crispy chicken atop a puddle of orange, creamy risotto and all drizzled with dark brown chicken jus. Everything was well-flavored but a bit too rich, though this richness also made it a perfect winter dish, since we crave richer, creamier, warmer flavors when the weather is blustery and wet outside.

My fellow diner’s entrée was another great winter comfort food. He ordered hand cut pasta ($24) that was served with healthy chunks of rock lobster, earthy mushrooms and green peas in a truffle cream sauce. This entrée was definitely the hit of the evening!  The cream sauce was certainly rich, but with the peas and lobster adding their memories of summer sweetness, there was definite balance in the dish. We were both excited to wrap up the leftovers, which we both fought over the next day for lunch.

Desserts:
Isabella’s boasted a delicious-sounding dessert menu (all $7). Perhaps the cold weather made all of the warm, gooey desserts sound particular appetizing this evening, but the bread pudding had my name written all over it. Warm chocolate cake, fresh brownies and warm apple crisp have made their way onto nearly every dessert menu as of late, but rum raisin bread pudding? Now that sounded different and delicious. I was very excited, and for a non-lover of desserts, this is saying quite a lot.

And boy was I right with my selection! The cube of squishy pudding came out piping hot and soaked with a sweet butter sauce, which played off of the rum soaked bread and raisins perfectly.  Although another rich dish, the intense flavors combined in a very non-cloying way. This was my favorite moment of the entire meal.

My fellow diner also ordered a dessert, which, while I didn’t enjoy as much as my own, it still worth noting. The creamy eggnog crème brulee was light and sinful at the same time and a perfect mid-December dessert. Served with wild berries, it was also much prettier to look at than my own oozy (though delicious) mess of dessert.

Assessment:
Isabella feels very classy but still manages to make you feel at home. Their dishes tended to be a bit too rich, but this is a sign of the season we ate there, I think, more than Isabella’s itself. Their dishes were well done and homey and I imagine their summer menu is sprinkled with fresh green veggies and light sauces, instead of heavy root vegetables and thick sauces. I am also tempted to come try Isabella’s for a night of drinks and appetizers sometime – maybe after hitting the nearby rock climbing gym first!

Address: 566 High Street, Dedham MA 02026
Phone: 781.461.8485
Website: http://www.isabellarestaurant.com
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Price: $7-$14 for appetizers and Tavern menu; $16-$26 for entrees
Hours: Lunch: Mon-Fri 1130am-3pm; Mon-Thu Dinner: 5pm-10pm; Fri & Sat 5pm-1030pm; Sun 5pm-930pm
Features: Tavern Menu, large portions, great desserts
Recommendations: Hand Cut Pasta, Rum Raisin Bread Pudding
Public Transit & Parking: Street Parking
Reservations: accepted; required for groups over 6
Payment Options: all major credit cards