Few drinks are a better match for pizza than beer. A diverse list of ten draught brews has something for every palate, from an Italian lager to a Belgian Tripel, with a surprising number of local breweries in the mix. If, by chance, you and your dinner mates can all agree on a beer, why not get a growler for the table? I’m of the mind that trying a variety is always fun, and Ducali’s beer flights are just the way to do it. There’s the Beantown lineup ($7), with five Boston brews (including Ducali Ale, made for the restaurant by Harpoon), but I went a bit further afield (at least thematically speaking) and opted for the Around the World ($9).
My tour began with the light, citrusy spice of Ommegang Witte, continued on to the honeyed, tropical fruit notes of Pretty Things Fluffy White Rabbits and the more assertive Liberty Ale from Anchor Steam, followed by a hoppy, boozy snort of Delirium Tremens, and finally, a few palate-cleansing sips of Peroni—quite the journey indeed. If beer’s not your bag, an unassuming wine list has twenty bottles on offer, with Italian options just beating out those from California, and a half dozen available by the glass (not to mention a house sangria). Loyal to the Italian theme, I chose a glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ($6.50), which was simple, fruity, and straightforward—ideal for washing down pizza. A seemingly odd choice for an Italian restaurant, the rosso della casa ($6) was a California Cabernet, and while drinkable, was a bit lackluster.
Assessment
Frattoroli wanted to give North Enders a hangout, and judging by the jovial crowd filling the room, he can consider that mission accomplished. As the evening waned, we found ourselves lingering, fully satisfied, picking at crusts of pizza and downing the dregs of our wine. It’s a testament to the atmosphere of a restaurant when diners stick around even after the last crumbs of the meal are gone, even more so when patrons come in simply to sip a beer at the copper-topped bar or perhaps catch a game on one of the flat-screened TVs. As it turns out, Monday is stump trivia night at Ducali, and as we readied ourselves to leave, questions were called out between lulls in the music to groups of Beantowners (for I’m quite certain there wasn’t a tourist in the place) sharing jugs of beer and carafes of sangria. For an Italian neighborhood with such a hallowed history, sometimes it seems like authenticity is at a premium in the North End. There are plenty of Italian eateries vying to be the quintessential, the stereotypical, the most Italian. Instead of fitting itself into a pre-established mold, Ducali is unapologetic in its refusal to pander, from the graffiti-covered walls en route to the basement restrooms to the overarching theme of marrying modern and traditional, young and old. The message seems to be that if this approach doesn’t jive with you, there are plenty of red-sauce joints nearby that might be better suited. It’s a solid neighborhood pizza place—is it the authentic North End experience? That all depends on what brand of authenticity you seek, but if you’re still craving a cannoli after a meal at Ducali, Maria’s is right down the street.
Address: 289 Causeway Street, Boston, MA 02113 (North End)
Phone: 617-742-4144
Website: http://ducalipizza.com
Cuisine: Italian
Prices: Appetizers: $7-$11; Salads & Sandwiches: $8-$13; Pizzas: $9-$13 for small, $17-$25 for large
Hours: Sun-Thurs: 1130am-12am; Fri & Sat: 1130am-1am; additional bar hours: Wed & Thur until 1am.
Features: Take out, rotating draught beer list, beer flights, growlers of beer, dough made fresh daily, house sangria, trivia night Mondays.
Recommendations: Calamari Arrabiata, Rugola pizza, Around the World beer flight
Payment Options: major credit cards
Parking: Street (limited), nearby garages.
I sampled the well-spiced grilled chicken and carnitas (shredded pork) varieties, stuffed with various fresh condiments. The accompanying guacamole ($1) is especially good – it had better be, given the avocado incorporated into the restaurant’s logo.
The grill marks on the outer layer of the flour tortilla provide a great crunch. The highlight was the grilled shrimp; Ustayev wouldn’t divulge the recipe beyond acknowledging the use of orange juice in the spicy, citrusy marinade. The remaining fillings – I chose pinto beans, green-tinged cilantro rice, pico de gallo and guacamole – burst with flavor.
The cucumber, tomato and feta salad is a bright, refreshing blend. And the tzatziki is mind-bendingly delicious: Yogurt, olive oil, garlic, herbs and sliced cucumbers all whipped together into a creamy spread you can eat with pita bread – or on its own.
Baklava is scrumptious, with honey-drizzled layers of phyllo dough, crushed walnuts, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla flavors. Also fantastic is the chocolate saragli, which shares many ingredients with baklava, while also throwing lemon zest and chocolate into the mix and rolling the whole shebang up like an eggroll, with phyllo serving as the outer layer. There’s also kataifi, which wraps shredded phyllo dough around a walnut- and almond-based filling, and koulourakia, a buttery, braided pastry that’s popular at Easter and goes well with coffee and tea.
The ground lamb topping is heavily spiced with notes of cumin, coriander, and subtle heat, while fresh goat cheese adds a sharp, creamy element. From the entrees, 
the romesco-brushed grilled swordfish ($34) is a standout. Garnished with crispy, sweet Maine shrimp and almond aioli, the fish is perfectly charred on the outside and rewardingly moist beneath the surface. This fish is well-paired with an a la carte side of roasted cauliflower with mustard seeds and yellow raisins ($9).
The milk chocolate panna cotta ($9) with hazelnut crunch and caramel zabaglione is one of the finest I’ve eaten.
topped with crispy fried capers, and didn’t make the mistake of being too mushy or unstructured, like eggplant can often turn out. The bisque was a gorgeous bright orange, with a crisp initial dance on the tongue followed by a long, buttery finish.
The black beans were just as I remembered – deep with flavor and slightly soupy – a perfect match to the white rice that is simmered in chicken broth to give it a richer, more complex flavor. The tostones are fried, but not greasy or oily, and the sweet plantains are syrupy and fruity – both traditional in the preparation.
served just with the caramel, and not with chocolate or coconut, but it was perfect! Not too sweet and not too creamy, the flan is silky smooth and slightly smoky from the caramel sauce. Next time, we’ll make sure to eat slightly less of our meals so we can also give the Avocado Panna Cotta a try ($5), which sounds like a great summer dessert, topped with a pineapple marmalade and an assortment of dried fruits.
In fact, everyone we saw come and go loved their food and their experience so much, they personally thanked the chefs before leaving. We made sure to do the same, and we’ll make sure to return – this is a welcome addition to the area and hopefully the start of a trend of well-thought out restaurants in Belmont and other surrounding suburbs.
and butternut squash and topped with a nest of crispy onions. The grit cake had a wonderfully smoky aroma underscoring the sweetness of the white corn grits. The vegetables were a simple, if slightly underwhelming, foil, while the fried onions added richness and crunch. Needless to say, the meat was not missed.
if it ain’t broke…unlike the candied, jaw-endangering pecan pies of my past, this one had a tender, nutty layer beneath an almost meringue-like top. A dollop of whipped cream and caramel sauce completed the plate. Next, butterscotch pudding ($5.50); 
the steamed custard was dense and incredibly moist without cloying, and with homemade butterscotch sauce and whipped cream melting over the top, it was all I could do not to lick the plate.
fit the bill. The wine menu at Redd’s is creatively (and logically) organized on a scale from dry to fruity, with columns for who (producer), what, where, when, and how (price). The system extracts the mystery from the often-daunting task of choosing wine, and insures that everyone will find a suitable glass—or bottle. Mainstays like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir ease you in with familiarity, while Picpoul, Falanghina, and Nero D’Avola offer a chance to try something new. Wines by the glass are all under nine bucks, and the most expensive bottle is $56, making an adventurous selection all the more approachable. Despite the myriad wine options, this food said one thing to me: eat me with beer. The whimsically named Mama’s Little Yella Pils from Oskar Blues ($5.00) comes in a can, belying the quality of the refreshing pilsner. The Berkshire Brewing Company Shabadoo Black & Tan 
($7.00) is a deep, smoky brew with caramel notes. A palette cleansing cocktail, the Smoky Dog 
($9.00) showcases the house-infused grapefruit-cardamom gin. Topped with bubbles and a smoked salt rim, it was complex but playful. Finally, a few sips of the Cocchi Barolo Chinato ($9.00) to accompany dessert. This digestif made from Barolo-steeped aromatics is bracing and slightly medicinal—a perfect complement for all things rich and sweet.
My one quibble: It would have been nice to have some sort of vegetable on the plate, too.
Dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar, they were filling without being stuffing. Enjoying these as the meal wound down, it would have been easy to forget that we were dining in Boston, not Sonora.
A fellow diner told us he lives in the neighborhood and visits El Centro all the time. After a meal like this, you can certainly understand why.
The guacamole was very well seasoned, but the pulled pork, while extremely tender, was not particularly flavorful or spicy on its own, although perhaps I shouldn’t expect authentic, flavor-bursting tacos at a Financial District bar. While not spectacular, they were tasty, well-composed and filling.
The accompanying ranch dip, laced with dill and black pepper, would have been good enough to eat on its own.
The customary bacon, lettuce and tomato finished off the sandwich, and there were more of those thick-sliced pickles on the side. The side serving of waffle fries was crisp and perfectly seasoned. I was torn on the homemade ketchup: personally, I liked its sweet, almost marinara-like taste, but I could see how others might view it as weak and lacking the traditional acidity of ketchup. Overall, we were pleased with the size of the plate, feeling it an ample entrée on a menu dominated by more tapas-like appetizers.
The shank was the highlight of this dish. Wrapped in caul fat and formed into a hockey puck shape, the shank was infused with flavor in the form of micro chopped vegetables. Not gamey, the moist shank had condensed flavor bursting with each bite. This dish was also served in a very generous portion, and I figured I would never finish it. I licked the plate clean.
While definitely more rare than I’m used to, I was surprised by how much I liked them. The scallops themselves were huge, and mildly seared on each side, allowing the true beauty of the scallop to come through in a salty sweet tender morsel. Well-seasoned, the sweet scallop paired nicely with the rich nutty cauliflower puree and the Brussels sprout “hash.” While this was a tasty dish, we thought the portion size was more average than the lamb, and more straightforward. However, when ingredients are this good, simplicity can be better.
While this is not an inexpensive meal, the service, portions, and quality of food make the prices more than worth it. I would recommend Forum to anyone with a gluten issue, and anyone else who just likes good food.
Slightly smoky, perfectly al dente lentils de Puy and sautéed arugula were nestled beneath rosy slices of duck breast with crisp skin, tender meat, and the restaurant’s own 16-spice blend—like Chinese five spice on steroids. Sauce Robert was served alongside, and although I applaud the simplicity and execution that went into the dish—and ate every last bite, mind you—I wouldn’t have minded a little more creativity in the sides.
The mousse sat atop a dehydrated chocolate mousse and was itself topped with caramelized rice crispies. Across a dividing line of dark cocoa sauce was a quenelle of Grand Marnier ice cream over powdered chocolate. Dollops of blood-orange gel and salted caramel surrounded both, as did segments of orange and grapefruit. Sensory overload ensues when I’m presented with a plate like this, and I’m left confused as to which components are supposed to go with which; should I take a bite with everything on it? Eat one thing at a time? Taste and then decide, like blending colors on a palette? My father used to say that executing a masterpiece takes two people: one man to paint it, and another to shoot him when it’s done. A few less elements on this plate, and it could’ve been a masterpiece.
A silver “carton” of white chocolate crème Anglaise sat beside it, and after piercing the crust of the soufflé, we poured it in. The gooey, warm, cardamom-scented center mingling with the sauce, and the contrast of the delicately-crisp, meringue-like surface were almost flawless, if bordering on overly sweet.
The fine folks at Deuxave, bless their hearts, couldn’t allow us to dine on foie without a classic pairing, and the 2009 St. Croix du Mont (a dessert wine similar to Sauternes) from Chateau de Bel Air ($10) fit the bill.
was a classic, rustic, old world wine, with a deep, inky color and black fruit buried under tobacco and leather. A world away was the 2009 Pinot Noir from Route Stock in Willamette Valley, Oregon 
($12), with bright cherry and a subtle smokiness. 
Finally, the bracing bitterness of Cynar, an amaro from Italy, was the ideal mate for dessert.
like one would expect, but the lobster didn’t shine much in this dish (it rarely does in lobster macaroni, though, so I’d usually suggest choosing a different mix-in). The salmon was beautifully presented, set atop luscious mashed potatoes and served next to grilled asparagus spears. The salmon was sweet and not over cooked, but could have used a slightly more flavorful glaze to truly stand out.
Actually, I ended up just eating the warm chocolate chip cookies and skipping the ice cream in the center. While an enormous cookie-lover, I tend to steer clear of chocolate chip cookies, as I find them uninspiring and often cloyingly sweet or the wrong texture. These, however, were the quintessential chocolate chip cookie, and I couldn’t help but eat two of them while the chips were still gooey. I would love to see them serve some warm cookies with a glass of milk instead of this dessert, as it would be so classic and fit in with their comfort food oriented menu.
Next time I have tickets to an event at TD Bank Garden, I certainly know where I’m going beforehand.
The light brown sauce nicely complemented the vegetables in the dish, letting the flavors of the individual components – particularly the bite of the basil—stand on their own.
absorbing the five flavors surrounding them. It was a little strong and salty, but the distinctive tastes – particularly the dominance of the anise—were cut quite nicely by some accompanying white rice (small $1).
which combined nutty clumps of black rice with peas, onions and crispy bean sprouts. Steamed black forbidden rice is on the menu, but I’d love to see this fried, sticky version added as well.
This may make me sound like a caveman, but roasted bone marrow is my kryptonite. It is one of my all-time favorite foods – I know most of you are grimacing, but don’t knock it till you’ve tried it! – and this was the best bone marrow I’ve ever had. It was my first veal marrow, and the difference between veal marrow and the full grown beef marrow is the intensity of the flavor. It was immensely rich with a savory gaminess. I spooned out every little morsel I could get. The veal itself, soaked in a rich tomato and wine sauce, was fork tender. Served with wilted spinach and a perfectly cooked saffron risotto, I was ready to take a nap after this dish.
The salmon was plated with the shrimp, a hearty salsify cannelloni, plus broccolini rabe and a red pepper puree. This was the prettiest dish we were served all night – the elegant plating was a work of art in itself. The salmon was seared perfectly, and the light dish was surprisingly filling.
but combined with the soft custardy bread pudding and the crisp bruleed bananas, the juxtaposition of hot and cold was absolute heaven.
While in appearance it was undeniably flan, one bite revealed that this dessert missed the mark. It seemed more gelatin than custard, and lacked the silky, yielding texture and pure egg-and-dairy flavor characteristic of flan. Luckily, our second selection saved the day. The Panecillo de Chocolate ($7) is Olé’s version of bread pudding, with 
both Belgian and Mexican bittersweet chocolates, and a texture so light that it bordered on soufflé-like. The cinnamon ice cream served with it highlighted the slight spiciness of the Mexican chocolate, and was a cool, creamy foil to the warm, rich pudding.
If you happen to be one of these all-too-common tequila abstainers and think you’re not missing anything, think again. From the first sip of Cazadores Tequila Anejo ($11), it was clear that this was no shot glass-filling swill. The reason it’s so good, in a nutshell, is that besides being made from 100 percent blue agave in Jalisco, Mexico (as all tequilas must be to be classified as such), the ‘anejo’ signifies an extra period of ageing in oak barrels, which mellows the tequila, making it incredibly smooth. 
On the mixed drinks side of the menu, the Mezcarita($9) sounded like a winner, blending Vida Mezcal (similar to tequila, but made in Oaxaca with a different kind of agave), lemon and lime juices, agave nectar, and bitters. To temper the spice of the food, La Vida Buena ($11) proved to be just the ticket: Mezcal, Chinaco Añejo, Aperol, red vermouth, and chocolate mole bitters made for a complex cocktail reminiscent of a Manhattan, but with a Latin twist. Browsing the dessert menu, something called Agavero ($10) caught my eye. Our waiter described it as a dessert tequila, and the 100 percent blue agave tequila liqueur certainly tasted as such. Infused with damiana (a flowering shrub with delicately-aromatic blossoms similar to chamomile), the liqueur had a pronounced sweetness balanced by subtle smoke and sultry, throat-warming heat.
Cambridge eateries manage to straddle the gap between fine dining and divey neighborhood joints. With a relaxed vibe, a colorful atmosphere, and a crowd-pleasing menu, Olé illustrates this perfectly. The food proves that it’s possible to pay homage to a cuisine in a well-informed yet playful way, staying true to the Mexican culture without letting stringent adherence preclude creative interpretation. Whether it’s a traditional dinner, late night snacks, or just a few celebratory cocktails you seek, Olé’s got you covered, and chances are, you’ll find something new and interesting amongst the comfortable and familiar. Just remember to keep an open mind—and whatever you do, give tequila a chance.
molcajete and served in the same dish it’s made in, alongside freshly fried tortilla chips. The ceviche ($10.75), 
which can be tuna or shrimp, is also made at this counter, where someone squeezes fresh lime juice over the fish (the tuna is raw) and mixes it with freshly chopped tomato, mango, avocado, onion, cilantro and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. This was our favorite dish of the evening – it was so bright and citrusy, bursting with so many flavors and textures – served with the amazing fresh tortillas, served warm in a little basket.
All were delicate and well-flavored, balanced between creamy and spicy, citrusy and herbal, crunchy and soft. The flautas (tortillas filled with cheese and chicken, fried) were cheesy, a great wintery comfort food. The tostados (corn tortillas, fried, and smeared with beans, and topped with shredded chicken, and a mélange of salsas and other toppings) were slightly spicy, very fresh and herbal, with deep, earthy flavors of onions and garlic. The tamale was soft, with an intense corn flavor and subtly spicy.
The enchiladas were gorgeous, drizzled with colorful sauces, and the skirt steak was juicy and bursting with flavor. The rice, served on the side of both dishes, was aromatic and a perfect pair to both the black beans served on the side with the enchiladas and the pinto beans served with the steak. 
If ordering the steak, I would recommend ordering a side of the fresh crema ($2) that is a decadent homemade sour cream and a fabulous match to the adobo marinade the steak is flavored with. The portions are large, so bring your appetite, or be prepared to carry out leftovers – the food was great reheated the next day, too!
The flan was sweet and creamy, with a smoky caramel topping – very yummy but also a little different than other flans I’ve had. 
The tres leches cake was amazing – made as a small, individual cake, it was moist and tangy, topped with apricots and mangoes.